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GRAINS OF TRUTH Treating the Thick-Skinned Men and younger clients enjoy a denser supply of blood vessels, more collagen and elastin and, in the case of XYs, larger pores and more sweat. (Exfoliation also helps expose men���s hair follicles, affording a closer shave.) While these clients stand to bene���t from sharper abrasives, make sure they don���t go overboard. Exfoliating more than a few times a week could compromise the barrier function and lead to dehydration, in���ammation, irritation and reactivity, thereby accelerating the aging process. ���At this stage, skin bounces back and heals quickly, so you don���t want to interrupt what the body naturally does well,��� Kerschbaumer notes. caution clients to use them sparingly Mud Grains can around the delicate eye area. be used alone or combined with nourishing clays to help Orange Peels slough quite ef���ciently. exfoliate and re-mineralize particularly ���They also add vitamin C, and help tough skin. tighten pores!��� Kerschbaumer adds. Crushed Walnut and Almond Shells are extremely hard, and ef���ciently slough thick deposits of dead surface skin. However, Pumice Powder is ground particularly coarsely. Save it for extremely leathery skin. A little Sand goes a long way to create a stronger���and rather exotic���exfoliant. Ground Fruit Pits of peaches and apricots provide sharp, tough abrasives Normal Skin Know-How For normal skin types, which tend to range from a combination of dry and oily to very oily, the abrasive particle should be soft and round so the exfoliation process doesn���t tear surface tissue. ���Seek scrub ingredients that have antiseptic properties and won���t cause breakouts,��� advises Edward. Fine Salts���when reduced to a super-granular form and stored to retain their purity���help to restore the natural balance of skin and may help heal mild psoriasis and eczema. Sugars, in brown, demerara and turbinado varieties, provide a gentler alternative to salts. To prevent them from getting hard, they need to be stored in airtight containers and kept in moisture-free environments. Shredded Coconut, when reduced to ultra-���ne granules, provides great texture for normalskinned clients. Ground Fruit Seeds (think blackberries, raspberries, kiwi, strawberries and cranberries) get the job done gently. 74 DAYSPA | MARCH 2013 Coral makes for an exotic exfoliant when powderized. Rice Bran Powder is an old Japanese secret for soft skin. It also helps to absorb pores��� dirt and oil. Nut Meals, when ground ���nely, provide a reliable yet gentle route to smooth skin. Poppy Seeds gently soothe and smooth dry, ���aky skin. Oatmeal offers a coarse yet gentle grain for effective exfoliation. �� ISTCOCKPHOTO.COM Fine-Grain Salts help draw toxins from the skin and are easily fragranced and tinted to create appealing scrub products. Seek grains slightly larger than those found in table salts. that won���t break down. Exercise caution, though������I���ve seen broken capillaries caused by rigorous exfoliation with pits,��� says Marc Edward, owner of Marc Edward Skincare in West Hollywood, California.