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BUILDING A BETTER BARRIER BARRIER 101 produced in the epidermis and serve to fill in the spaces between dead cells, as your grout." Embedded throughout "Not only does the barrier protect us from harmful elements, but it retains our hydration, keeping our organs functioning properly." and connect, forming potential entry pores for microorganisms and skincare actives across the stratum corneum. Other vital components of the skin's barrier function include ceramides—a waxy variety of lipid—and fatty acids. Together, says Allison, they function as an "extracellular matrix." Along with its mainstays—keratins and lipids—the barrier is composed of sebum, sweat, amino acids, and trace elements that include minerals and sugars. As Angela Eriksen-Stanley, director of education for the Phytomer Group, explains, "If any of these components are compromised, you have a problem. Having the right amount of dead skin cells in the right structure is essential. Think of these keratinocytes as your tiles, and the lipids, which are 54 DAYSPA | NOVEMBER 2013 are little 'sponges' that help absorb and hold onto moisture. "These are a combination of minerals, amino acids and sugars," Eriksen-Stanley says. "Their molecules help hold water longer so it doesn't evaporate off the skin." As Caroline Rushworth, director of education for Sothys USA, sums up, "The homeostasis of the barrier function depends mainly on three elements: corneocytes (and thus the stratum corneum), intercellular cement and tight junctions." Amazingly, all components of this "natural shield" are produced by the skin itself, explains Dr. Christian Jurist, medical director of education for Pevonia. "The barrier is constantly adapting to maintain the proper nutritional exchange between the skin and the environment to achieve a healthy equilibrium," he adds. Moisture retention is also key to a healthy barrier. "Not only does the barrier protect us from harmful elements, but it retains our hydration, which keeps our organs functioning properly," says Laurie Nicoll, founder and CEO of Stemulation. "The barrier's overarching role is to shield our water-based internal organs from drying out. Our bodies are approximately 70% water—without this 'protective seal' we would dehydrate and dry up within hours!" GREAT BARRIER THIEFS So what exactly is out to disrupt the barrier from doing its all-important job? A lot, apparently. As April Zangl, CEO of HydroPeptide, notes, "Holes form in the barrier structure after the skin has become depleted of natural fatty substances and acids." And those crucial elements are subject to the solvent effect of liquids such as soaps, cleansing agents and even water. This happens more frequently and severely in extreme temperatures. Not surprisingly, aging is also a major © ISTOCKPHOTO.COM The barrier's function, in a nutshell, is to keep the good stuff in and the bad stuff out. "A healthy skin barrier attracts water, keeps that moisture in, maintains lipids—or oils—and protects the body from environmental assaults and pathogens," says Jennifer Fredette, Murad's director of retail education. This includes the sun, cold, viruses, bacteria and other germs, as well as daily stressors in the form of razors, heat, detergents and other chemicals. Dead skin cells within the barrier are known as corneocytes. Repêchage's founder and president Lydia Sarfati explains that on the barrier's lower levels, the corneocytes are tightly bridged together by lipids. "However, these lipid junctions begin to disintegrate as corneocytes migrate toward the surface of the skin, resulting in desquamation, or shedding," explains Safarti. Then, as these "loosened junctions" encounter more hydration toward the surface, they expand