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Cell-ing Points MYTH NO. 1: Plant stem cells and human stem cells are exactly the same. A common misconception is that skincare products with stem cells contain the same type that's used in medicine—in other words, human embryonic stem cells—but that's usually not the case. "The majority of stem cells used in skin care are plant-based," says Barbara Close, founder and CEO of Naturopathica. "The controversies that arise for some people regarding safety and/or the ethical nature of sourcing are really about embryonic stem cells only." There are some major differences between plant- based and human-derived stem cells. One key distinc- tion is that, although both types of stem cells are able to differentiate, or change, into any type of cell in the organism, plant stem cells can return to an undif- ferentiated state. "Human stem cells reach a point of terminal differentiation, where they are so specialized that they will forever only make a particular type of cell—liver cells will always stay liver cells, for example," says Dawson. "With plants, you can take more special- ized cells and de-differentiate them, restoring their initial state of unlimited potential." Some skincare products contain proteins extracted from human stem cells that are cultivated in a labora- tory, acknowledges Karen Asquith, national technical training manager for G.M. Collin. "The proteins that stem cells release have been proven to stimulate wound healing, and therefore could assist with sun- damaged skin, sensitivity and wrinkles," she explains. "But the majority of stem cell products use plant-based stem cells. The skin contains approximately 2% to 7% stem cells, which are responsible for skin repair and regeneration. As they diminish over time, the skin loses its ability to effi ciently repair and regenerate, causing skin aging. Plant-based stem cells help increase skin stem cell longevity while protecting and maintaining their function." A related assumption is that plant stem cells in skincare products is a passing fad. "According to the research report, 'Global Cosmeceuticals Market Outlook 2016' by RNCOS [a business consultancy service based in Chicago], plant stem cell technology is expected to propel the global cosmeceutical market forward at a rate of 7.7% during 2012-2016," points out Szilvia Hickman, senior vice president of Szep Elet, exclusive distributor of Ilike Organic Skin Care. "Why is there so much interest in plant stem cell technology? Plant stem cells allow us the opportunity to harness the power of stem cells from the roots, buds and fruits—without the controversy. They maintain themselves while providing a steady supply of cells to different tissues and organs in plants." MYTH NO. 2: Plant stem cells are genetically altered. Some consumers express concern that plant stem cells are not "natural"—that they've been genetically modifi ed in some way, but this simply isn't true, says Sederma's Dawson. "The way that genetic modifi cation works is that you essentially inspect the cells, fi nd the portion of the genome that you want to modify and in- troduce to the cells an attribute they would never have on their own," she explains. "This requires cross-linking MYTH-UNDERSTANDINGS 46 DAYSPA | JUNE 2014 BUTTERFLY BUSH ECHINACEA EDELWEISS ©ISTOCKPHOTO.COM C e l l - i n g P o i n t s . i n d d 4 6 Cell-ing Points.indd 46 5 / 6 / 1 4 1 : 2 3 P M 5/6/14 1:23 PM