AUG 2014

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Page 56 of 115 | AUGUST 2014 55 damage proteins like collagen." As excess digested sugar molecules enter the circulation, they attach them- selves to tissue proteins such as colla- gen and begin to slowly rearrange their youthful structure, creating advanced glycation end products (AGEs). AGEs collect in skin tissues cross-linking with other protein molecules. Eventually, col- lagen becomes rigid and brittle, leading to wrinkling and leathery skin. The good news is that potent anti- oxidants, such as green tea, which are already in many skincare formulations, are also helpful in preventing glycation. "Antioxidants and chelators may play a critical role in the prevention of glycation," says DermAware's Zone. "Vitamins C and E and natural plant extracts with high antioxidant and fl avonoid content show promise." Adds Mayne, "Amino acids like lycine and arginine actually compete with the proteins potentially cross- linking with sugars—thereby prevent- ing some cross-linking," she says. "The use of collagen- and elastin-enhancing peptides also supports healthy cell function and regrowth of the extracel- lular matrix, both replenishing material lost to or damaged by glycation and preventing further damage." The better news is that there are several new ingredients that can help prevent and even reverse the effects of glycation. "Alistin (decarboxy carnosine HCL) is a peptide shown to have multiple actions within the skin. It protects col- lagen and other proteins from glyca- tion at two levels," says Zangl. "First, it prevents glycation by scavenging glucose. It is also involved in the repara- tion process by substituting itself to the collagen in the transglycation process. Alistin is able to prevent proteins from cross-linking. It has been shown to be more potent than aminogluanidine, a known reference AGE inhibitor." Until recently it was thought that once AGEs formed, there was no fi xing the problem, but that may no longer be true. Albrizia julibrissin bark extract from the Persian silk tree or mi- mosa has been shown to break down the glycation bonds and help return the skin to a more healthful condition. "A couple of years ago this extract of the mimosa tree was discovered, which seems to play a part in the antiglycation process," says Cummings. "It appears to protect protein from glycation and even helps release the sugar molecule from already glycated proteins, allow- ing it to return to normal function. An exciting clinical study in France showed people using this extract looked 8 to 10 years younger in 60 days." Linda W. Lewis is an editorial consultant and a regular contributor to DAYSPA. • Use FreeInfo #24 Where Science Meets Beauty Patented SmartPeptide technology Clinically proven results Consumer solutions for anti-aging, brightening, blemishes, stretch marks Business builder program TM

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