Dayspa

APR 2016

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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26 DAYSPA | APRIL 2016 GROWING FOR CERTIFICATION As a spa professional, you are (unfortunately) discon- nected from the farming, harvesting and sourcing process required of skincare manufacturers. However, when partnering with the brands carried by your spa, it's crucial to ask questions about how the company's ingredients, organic or otherwise, are sourced. Some skincare companies run their own farms, many in Europe and Australia, where organic standards are much stricter. Éminence operates organic and bio- dynamic farms in Hungary, where company founders Boldijarre and Attila Koronczay were born. "One of our brand's main advantages is that our manufactur- ing and product processing are performed within Europe, where guidelines are stricter to begin with," says Natalie Pergar, Éminence's lead skincare trainer. Owning a farm enables manufacturers to control every step of the production process, and there- fore guarantee that ingredients are wholly organic. "Each of our farm-grown herbs and fl owers can be traced back to the exact date, day and hour they were picked," explains Sara LaBree, education man- ager with Jurlique, which owns an organic farm in the Adelaide Hills of South Australia. "Since we manually tend and pick all our ingredients, every fl ower, petal and leaf is inspected by hand." It took three years for Ilike Organic Skin Care's farm in Hungary to become offi cially certifi ed. Both BDIH and Hungária Öko Garancia, a Hungarian certifi cation agency, certify Ilike's products, and each organization conducts a thorough, yearly audit of the brand's wildcrafting and farming methods, active in- gredient processing, and the documentation regard- ing inactive ingredient sourcing. "BDIH also reviews our manufacturing processes and environmental hygiene and storage conditions, plus all of our package copy details and marketing communications," explains Szilvia Hickman, owner and senior vice president of Szép Élet, exclusive distributor of Ilike Organic Skin Care. Across the board, there are hundreds of require- ments that organic farms must adhere to, all of which are determined by the certifi cation organiza- tion. These rules can apply to everything from the types of cleaning formulas used on processing equip- ment to a restriction on utilizing manure from indus- trial animal farms and conventionally raised animals. If a manufacturer doesn't have the means to op- erate its own farms, it must work either directly with Certifi ed Organic farms or with vendors, distributors and sourcing companies that have partnerships with Certifi ed Organic farms. "We, like many organic skin- care companies, don't have the resources to go to farmers ourselves, especially those on the other side of the world," explains Karamooz. In a similar position is Karen Bock, owner of ColorStrokes Cosmetics, a divi- sion of Brushes by Karen, who formulates her Natural Organic Cosmetics with Certifi ed Organic ingredients. "Because my products are private label, I need to keep my costs down, so becoming a Certifi ed Organic op- eration wasn't realistic for me," she explains. Instead, manufacturers like these choose sourcing companies that work only with Certifi ed Organic farms and have their own quality checks in place. "I purchase only Certifi ed Organic ingredients but I do have to rely on the USDA to inspect my growers," explains Fedotova. Shira Esthetics also depends on the USDA-provided list of verifi ed farmers to purchase products for its Shir-Organic Select line. "We know that the Certifi ed Organic approval and audit process is carried out by a third-party certifi er each year," explains Shira Esthet- ics president Jerry Nezaria. This gives company leaders peace of mind that the farms they choose are indeed supplying genuinely organic products. LABEL LINGO As a skincare professional, you've seen the numerous claims that suppliers put on their product bottles. From "100% Organic" to "All Natural," the terms can be con- fusing, to say the least. "What upsets me is the word- play," notes Sarajane Ward, creator of Plush Organic Skin Care. "So many brands say 'we're all-natural' or 'we use organic ingredients' and that's fi ne, but clients want to know exactly what they're putting on their skin." © GETTY IMAGES continued on page 32

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