AUG 2016

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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44 DAYSPA | AUGUST 2016 How do you choose the right exfoliant, and are there any skin types or concerns that require extra caution? LeCompte: There are contraindications for acid exfoliation: Clients who are pregnant, or have sunburns or hypersensitive skin, shouldn't receive acid exfoliant peels. Topical retinoids and facial waxing must be discontinued 48 to 72 hours prior to an acid exfoliation, and oral isotretinoin or other similar prescriptions must be stopped for six months. Plus, clients should refrain from exfoliating— especially with an acid—for 48 hours before a peel. Coffman: Acids can cause photosensitivity, so clients should avoid the sun following treatment. Even if they go outside for just a few minutes, using a sunscreen (especially one that contains zinc) is a must. Masserio: You always have to be careful when dealing with clients with darker skin types (Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V and VI)—an acid may cause hyperpigmentation if they don't use a broad-spectrum SPF. People with sensitive skin should exfoliate fewer times per week than those with thicker, oilier skin, which can tolerate more. I recommend mechanical scrub exfoliation in the morning and chemical acid exfoliation in the evening, in order to minimize post-acid sun exposure. What at-home exfoliant regimen do you recommend for clients? Coffman: One of the fi rst questions I ask clients is, 'Do you exfoliate at home?' I explain to them that in order for skin to be able to absorb serums and moisturizers, it's imperative to remove any dead cells on the surface. I encourage my clients to exfoliate at least once a week. When I make product recommendations, I consider clients' skin condition and cell turnover rate, as well as their lifestyles and schedules. Masserio: I steer clients toward SAIAN's Salicylic Acid 2% tonic, which they should use either every evening or every other evening, depending on their skin's oiliness. I recommend they also use an exfoliating mechanical scrub—which may be mild or more abrasive depending on skin type—two or three mornings a week. LeCompte: We often recommend Pevonia's Renewing Glycocides Cream—which is formulated with glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, chamomile and vitamin E—before and after an acid exfoliation. Laura Beliz is DAYSPA's associate editor. ACID EXFOLIATORS Jurlique Resurfacing Enzyme Peel 800.854.1110, Pevonia Lacto-Flora Peel 800.PEVONIA, Shira Esthetics Shir- Radiance Corrective Rx Mandelic Serum 15% 800.957.4472, Ilike Organic Skin Care Rosehip Exfoliator 888.290.6238, Éminence Blueberry Soy Exfoliating Cleanser 888.747.6342, HydroPeptide Exfoliating Cleanser 800.932.9873, FarmHouse Fresh Pudding Apeel 888.773.9626, Nature Pure Labs Chemical Peel 40% 212.699.0933, Botanical Science, Inc. AHA Mint Masque 800.668.7546, SPOTLIGHT ON...

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