DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.
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50 DAYSPA | AUGUST 2016 TH E STATE OF S E R U M S Typically water-based—without emollients, oils and other moisturizing agents—serums usually consist of high con- centrations of active ingredi- ents. As a result, "they boost the effi ciency of clients' existing skincare regimes," says Valérie Simonin, senior chief of product development for Cinq Mondes. "Serums are lightweight because they leave out occlusive ingredients that trap in moisture," explains Hudacek. "This means they're less moisturizing than creams and lotions, but also more easily absorbed." Although the jury's still out, some spa pros con- sider them more crucial to hydration than traditional moisturizers. A serum can even replace a moisturizer— especially for clients with oily skin. But, advises Hudacek, "For those with dry or sensitive skin, I rec- ommend applying a serum prior to moisturizing." Laurel Morton, MD, a dermatologist based in Chestnut Hill, Massachusetts, notes that the super-concentrated ingredients in serums can irritate guests with sensitive skin, eczema and/or rosacea. EXPEDIENT INGREDIENTS AND PERFECT PAIRINGS A myriad of serums are manufactured to treat a range of skin issues, but which ingredients work together to best address each one? Depending on their target con- cern, serums may be rich in fi rming or hydrating agents, antioxidants, or essential oils and vitamins, which exist in the form of small molecules. "In their molecular form, antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E and resveratrol help block free radicals that dam- age skin cells and contribute to aging," says Morton. For her part, when it comes to antiaging con- cerns , Karen Asquith, national director of education for G.M. Collin, opts for peptides . "There's a vast variety available to treat everything from expression lines to wrinkles to loss of tone," she says, agreeing that antioxidants are important in antiaging prep- arations too. Kitchen also believes in the power couple of pep- tides and antioxidants, citing formulations that target issues such as dry skin, premature signs of aging and hyperpigmentation . "To tighten skin , look for skin-volumizing peptides. To calm infl amed skin , seek anti-redness peptides blended with white and green tea extracts ," he suggests. As for other antiaging power agents, Hudacek seeks out serums containing retinol and glycolic acid . To reduce fi ne lines and wrinkles , Morton also looks toward retinols, as well as peptides, niacinamide and growth factors . Kim Lee, corporate sales educator for Pevonia, notes that multi-benefi t ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C can be combined with tar- geted ingredients—with propolis to treat acne irri- tation , with green tea and aloe to soothe, and with polypeptides to address aging concerns. For hyperpigmentation, Asquith turns to AHAs and tyrosinase inhibitors . Hudacek looks to skin brightening kojic acid and licorice root extract . Morton recommends arbu- tin to even out skin tone, add- ing that retinol- and salicylic Burdock Sage Rose hip © GETTY IMAGES "Serums are the magic bullet to correcting deep-seated skin conditions." —Kim Lee, corporate sales educator, Pevonia "Serums are never greasy or heavy, which is a plus for clients, especially those with oily skin." —Charlene DeHaven, MD, clinical director, Innovative Skincare