AUG 2016

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Page 55 of 100 | AUGUST 2016 53 Skincare clients, for their part, are also staying on top of trends and developments. "They're seeking ad vanced serum penetration me- th ods, in the forms of ampoules, con centrates and freeze-dried a c tives," adds Lee. According to Asquith, specially concentrated formulas, or "boosters," are all the rage. "Booster formulations favor active ingredients that provide environmental protection, probiotics, AHAs and BHAs," she says. "Boost- ers can be applied prior to a serum, to provide a broader range of action and aid in serum absorption as well." Scientists are also fi nding new ways to stabilize the active ingredi- ents in serums—ones that not only boost skin's appearance, but also afford products a longer shelf life. "For example, we know that vitamin C is very unstable, which is why it's often accompanied by a stabilizer like vitamin E," says Hudacek. Lee agrees that the proper packaging and delivery of agents like vitamin C is crucial for measurable results. "We rely on vitamin E, as well as a propri- etary encapsulation delivery system." DeHaven sees the aforemen- tioned micelles as a major compo- nent of the serum formulation fron- tier. "We all know that water and oil don't typically mix well, but water- and lipid-soluble actives are good at targeting different parts of the skin cell," she explains. "The micelle is dissolved or suspended in the serum via rapid and precise mixing speeds. Future formulators will be able to concentrate even more complex groups of lipid- and water-soluble molecules into serums." Karamooz points to another trend—clients' ever-burgeoning de- mand for nature- and plant-based solutions. "We expect to see the use of ancient herbologies become more popular in skincare prod- ucts, especially in serums," she says. Agrees Hudacek, "The world of plant extracts as a source of antioxidants is getting very exciting." HydroPeptide's Kitchen also notes that advances in clean science have made it more possible to eliminate fi llers and other questionable ingre- dients from serums. "Peptides are now being derived from vegeta- bles, grains and yeast—after which various peptide sequences can be synthesized, using natural peptide preservatives," he says. "Given the heightened ingredient awareness and sensitivity among modern spa patrons, those pros who can explain that products are formulated only with purposeful, effective ingredi- ents stand to gain client trust." Katie O'Reilly is an Oakland, California- based editor and writer. Professional Quality Skin Treatment Products Backed By 35 Years Of Innovation, Success And Real Results Back Bar / Retail d e a e s u t s B a c k B a r / R e t a i l WWW.RAYAL AB.COM / 800.525.7292 / 818.760.6655

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