APR 2017

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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[ 52 ] • DAYSPA • april 2017 BelleCôte Paris Triple Stem Cell Mask DermAware Wrinkle Release Serum C2 California Clean Apple Stem Cell Regenerating Serum Fleur's Passionfl ower Moisturizing Body Milk fl Stem Cells We talked to four formulators who reveal the science behind stem cells in skin care. How does stem cell technology work? Gül Zone, founder and CEO, DermAware: Stem cells are 'unprogrammed' cells that can differentiate into specifi c cells with unique functions. The basal layer of the epidermis contains stem cells, but they become fewer in number and less active as people age. Stem cells used in skincare products have been shown to: stimulate the proliferation of epidermal and dermal stem cells; increase the longevity of basal skin stem cells; and reverse senescence signs in fi broblast cells (senescence is the natural progression by which fi broblast cells lose their ability to undergo cellular division). Laurie Nicoll, founder, Stemulation: The simplest way to understand how stem cell technology works is to appreciate how stem cells function in the body. Mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) act as the body's 'emergency medical team.' MSCs are multipotent and have the ability to become skin, bone, tissue and blood. When our bodies experience a trauma, even something as insignifi cant as a paper cut, MSCs are dispensed to the site. Through a cell proliferation process they produce growth factors, cytokines (peptides) and proteins that 'tell' the surrounding cells how to perform. It's important to note that topical skincare products do not contain stem cells themselves—they hold these nutrients (growth factors, cytokines and proteins) that are captured in conditioned media, which is the active ingredient used in effective stem- cell-based products. Describe some of the different types stem of cells and how they affect the skin. Karen Asquith, national education director, G.M. Collin: The majority of stem cells used in skincare products are sourced from plants. Grape and lilac stem cells are said to have antioxidant, anti-infl ammatory and wound healing capabilities. A study by a Swiss apple ingredient manufacturer showed that the apple's stem cells stimulated the proliferation of human stem cells, thereby reducing wrinkle depth. Christian Jurist, M.D., medical director of global education, Pevonia: There are certain, specifi c types of plant-derived stem cells that contain epigenetic factors similar to those of an adult human stem cell. Epigenetic factors are proteins that contain TOP: © GETTY IMAGES G.M. Collin Phyto Stem Cell + Gel-Cream spotlight by Laura Beliz STEM CELL PRODUCTS

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