JUN 2017

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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[ 28 ] • # dayspamagazine • june 2017 primed for protection 2. Does the sunscreen provide full-spectrum UV protection? SPF measures only how well a sunscreen prevents sunburn. "The fairer the skin type, the higher the SPF needed," says Laura Ferris, MD, PhD, associate professor of dermatology at the University of Pittsburgh. "For individuals who are prone to burning (they typically freckle easily and have red or blonde hair and blue eyes), I recommend daily use of an SPF 30 or higher, and an SPF 50 or higher when outdoors for a longer period of time." To determine if a sunscreen protects against UVA radiation, check the label, which should note full- or broad-spectrum UV protection. Broad-spectrum means protection from UVB radiation—which causes sunburns, pigment changes and skin cancer—and from UVA rays, which reach deep into the dermis and trigger signs of aging and changes that can lead to deadly skin cancer. UVA rays are even more insidious than UVB rays because the damage they cause persists all year long, in winter as well as summer, and they can even penetrate windshields and windows. Better still, check the label for some combination of these FDA-approved actives, which have been shown to protect against at least part of the UVA spectrum: avobenzone, ecamsule, oxybenzone, titanium dioxide, sulisobenzone and zinc oxide. The only two ingredients that can by themselves protect against the full UV spectrum are stabilized avobenzone and zinc oxide. 3. What's the client's skin type? As with any skincare product, it's vital to take into account an individual's skin type before steering them toward the right SPF. Choosing the wrong formula may result in breakouts or worse, and deter them from using any sun protection, with potentially dangerous results. NORMAL SKIN "Helping clients establish proper skincare habits during their 20s sets them up for a lifetime of healthy, youthful skin," says Dr. Imahiyerobo-Ip. "If they live in a sunny climate, they should use SPF 50 when outdoors to prevent the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Although there are a few sunscreens that include excellent antioxidants and moisturizers, many do not go above SPF 30. The easy fi x is to apply pigment-fi ghting agents such as vitamin C, kojic acid, green tea and niacinamide under an SPF 50." Adams agrees. "It's like having an extra safety net underneath the sunscreen to neutralize more free radicals," she says. "Look for potent vitamin A, C and E stabilized together in a lightweight serum." Dr. Jurist adds, "Sunscreens may be tinted (with iron oxide pigments) for concealing eff ects and additional protection." DRY SKIN "Creamier, more emollient formulations are the best choice for clients with dry skin," says Dr. Jurist. "Sun protection cannot come at the expense of the skin's barrier function," adds Dr. Imahiyerobo-Ip. "That's why I like moisturizers that contain sunscreen—they provide the skin with soothing emollients as well as sun protection." Adams suggests, "Look for the new 3-in-1 category of sunscreens that treat, hydrate and protect." © GETTY IMAGES

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