JUN 2017

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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[ 30 ] • # dayspamagazine • june 2017 OILY/ACNEIC SKIN "Clients with acne fear that moisturizers and sunscreens will make them break out," notes Dr. Imahiyerobo-Ip. "On the contrary, the resulting dryness can actually cause acne-prone skin to secrete more sebum and break out more. For those clients, I recommend a light, noncomedogenic moisturizer with sunscreen." Dr. Ferris suggests using only sun protection made especially for the face, pointing out that these tend to be lighter and less occlusive than those formulated for use on other parts of the body. "Mineral-based, powdered sunscreens are good options for clients with acne-prone skin," she adds. "Avoid chemical sunscreen ingredients and go for the new micronized zinc oxide and/ or transparent titanium dioxide," advises Adams. Dr. Jurist recommends seeking out formulas that contain citrus extracts (such as grapefruit), tea tree oil or other antiseptic ingredients. "These help control bacteria and prevent breakouts," he says. SENSITIVE SKIN Sunscreen actives most commonly associated with skin reactions are PABA, avobenzone, oxybenzone and octocrylene. Be aware, though, that other components of a formulation, such as fragrances, dyes and preservatives, can also trigger reactions. "For clients with sensitive skin, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the least allergenic actives," says Dr. Ferris. "In addition to hyaluronic acid and ceramides, look for plant and fruit oil extracts that aren't overly stimulating," says Dr. Jurist, who favors ingredients like licorice extract, green tea, chamomile, allantoin and sea whip. Clients with sensitive skin can also look for sunscreens formulated for babies or products awarded the National Eczema Association Seal of Acceptance. primed for protection © GETTY IMAGES Although scientists work on cutting- edge issues—inventions such as sunscreens that allow for vitamin D production, marine ingredients with UV-ray-dissipating properties, and innovative UVA inhibitors that decrease wrinkle formation— formulators anxiously await a more immediate change: FDA approval of some new sunscreen actives. Europe has 28 approved active ingredients and Japan has 42, compared to 16 in the U.S. Two ingredients currently awaiting FDA approval—Mexoryl (ecamsule) and Tinosorb M (bisoctrizole)— have been in use in products in Europe for more than a decade with excellent safety records. In 2006, L'Oréal gained FDA approval of its Anthelios products, which contain Mexoryl—a potent short-wavelength UVA absorber and popular photostabilizing ingredient—but the FDA has yet to approve the ingredient for use in other products. Extensively employed in Europe and Canada, Tinosorb M absorbs both UVA and UVB rays, and degrades very little in sunlight. Stay tuned: Changes at the FDA may mean we'll see more approvals soon. u The Future's So Bright

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