DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.
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[ 26 ] • # dayspamagazine • june 2017 For normal skin, any sunscreen with safe, effective ingredients and a pleasing formula will do the trick, but our panelists do have their preferences. "I recommend a product with broad-spectrum sunscreen actives such as homosalate, octinoxate, oxybenzone and octocrylene," says Joyce Imahiyerobo-Ip, MD, guiding dermatologist for HydroPeptide. "It's important that a sunscreen contains good moisturizers such as ceramides to help maintain a healthy skin barrier." Christian Jurist, MD, dermatologist and medical director of global education for Pevonia, suggests looking for formulas with safe sunscreen actives. "They should contain proven ingredients like hyaluronic acid and antioxidants in a lightweight, hydrating, water-resistant formula for everyday use," he says. "Avoid controversial ingredients like PABA and synthetic colors and fragrances." Sandra Adams, global clinical educator for Innovative Skincare, recommends looking for micronized, broad-spectrum protectors like zinc oxide, and avoiding actives that aren't micro-encapsulated. "Micro-encapsulation prevents the chemical from absorbing into the skin. Keeping it on the surface with the encapsulation technology lets the chemical do its job without the common side effects seen with some sunscreens," she says. She also recommends looking for skin-defending ingredients like extremozymes, plant enzymes that act to protect skin DNA from damage. "My sunscreen recommendation for all skin types is zinc oxide with niacinamide," says Jessie Cheung, MD, a dermatologist with Dermatology & Laser Center in Willowbrook, Illinois. "Zinc doesn't irritate or cause allergies, and the newer micronized formulations are sheer and not chalky. Niacinamide is a B vitamin that works wonders for the skin. It has antioxidant properties to further protect from the sun and free radicals, anti-infl ammatory properties to soothe acne and rosacea, and it benefi ts mature skin by stimulating collagen production. It also helps the skin bind moisture and even out skin discoloration." primed for protection © GETTY IMAGES "The best sunscreen is the one a client willingly uses every day," counsels Sandra Adams, global clinical educator for Innovative Skincare. "Active ingredients are important, but the feel of the formula is a key point for many people." Given the array of elegant sunscreen formulations now available, there's no excuse for avoiding sun protection. "There are sheer lotions that dry down to a matte fi nish, and aerosols and powders that can be continuously reapplied even over makeup and wet skin," points out Jessie Cheung, MD, a dermatologist with Dermatology & Laser Center in Willowbrook, Illinois. Still, not all products are created equal, and it's your job to help clients pick the right one. So, advise them to get answers to the following three basic but important questions. 1. What are the sunscreen's active ingredients? The actives used in sun protection products are regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). There are two types of chemicals: those that absorb UV radiation, often seeming to disappear entirely; and those that physically block sunlight by remaining on the skin's surface and refl ecting away the sun's rays. The 16 FDA-approved sunscreen actives are: avobenzone, cinoxate, dioxybenzone, homosalate, menthyl anthranilate (meradimate), octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), octyl salicylate (octisalate), oxybenzone, padimate O, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (ensulizole), sulisobenzone, titanium dioxide, trolamine salicylate and zinc oxide. Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX) has FDA approval only as used in L'Oréal Anthelios SX products (under the La Roche-Posay brand). Other sunscreen ingredients, such as antioxidants and enzymes, may enhance performance, but the FDA does not consider them active ingredients. Favorite Formulations