AUG 2017

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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[ 18 ] • # dayspamagazine • august 2017 spotlight by Laura Waldon Retinol Spa pros reveal how incorporating vitamin A into treatments and home care can benefi t a range of client concerns. What skin concerns does retinol address? Beth Bialko, associate director of global curriculum, The International Dermal Institute, New York City: Retinol is considered the industry's gold standard ingredient for treating the signs of skin aging. It has been shown to help accelerate skin renewal, and reduce the appearance of fi ne lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, resulting in fi rmer, smoother, more even- toned skin. Kim Li, owner, Uber Skincare River City, Jacksonville, Florida: Retinol is best suited for treating acne, signs of aging and psoriasis. For acne, retinol can unclog pores and reduce breakouts—fewer breakouts means less scar formation. It also makes blackheads less 'sticky' as plugs rise to the skin's surface. For wrinkles, retinol encourages collagen and cytokine production, stimulates new blood vessels and exfoliates the epidermis, revealing the fresher, younger-looking skin underneath. Finally, retinol can help manage the appearance of psoriasis by promoting new, healthy skin cell formation and aiding the absorption of other topical medication. Are there skin conditions in which retinol should be avoided? Corri Vara, owner, International Day Spa, Redlands, California: We recommend that clients with sensitivity or rosacea stay away from products containing retinols—some can make skin red or irritated, especially with these pre- existing skin conditions. Robin Deresh, co-founder and esthetician, Skin & Tonic, Raleigh, North Carolina: We avoid retinol- based treatments on clients who have sunburned, irritated or overly dry skin. Guests must also stop using retinol at least 48 hours before receiving a peel or waxing service. Bialko: Retinol use should be discontinued two weeks before and during prolonged exposure to sunlight, such as a beach vacation. It should not be administered on sensitized, broken or injured skin, and must not be used in LED treatments. And women who are pregnant or nursing should avoid retinol altogether. How do you approach any issues that clients may have with tolerability? Li: It's always best to choose a milder retinol with a lower concentration for fi rst-time users, so their skin doesn't get irritated and fl ake. As they gradually get used to it, these clients can always switch to a stronger product to get better results. Everyone has a different reaction, so I moniter the issue and adjust the retinol strength accordingly. © GETTY IMAGES RETINOL PRODUCTS BiON Research Skincare Vitamin A+ Antioxidant Complex DermAware Vital Retinol Gel Gentle DermaSwiss Retinewal Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 1% Bio France Lab Retinol Pearl 0.24% Serum

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