AUG 2017

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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[ 20 ] • # dayspamagazine • august 2017 Dermelect Cosmeceuticals Outcrease Retinol Trifecta Serum DM Skincare VitA-Clear Serum RETINOL PRODUCTS Vara: Clients should slowly introduce retinol into their skincare routine. Generally, I suggest they begin using the new product one or two times per week and—if there's no sensitivity— build up from there. We recommend Murad's Retinol Youth Renewal Serum, as its formula combines three retinol technologies that gently deliver results without irritation. Deresh: We conduct very thorough consultations, especially when it comes to retinol use. We have to get the skin to a healthy place so it can tolerate the ingredient and ultimately benefi t from it. Clients are often using other products—mixing and matching cabinets full of items—that exacerbate retinol's results, so we create a customized regimen to control that potential for irritation. Our plan is to start slowly: introduce our gentlest retinol products fi rst, such as DermAware's Vital Retinol Gel Gentle, and limit the number of application days per week. Clients frequently come in feeling that they can't tolerate retinol, when in fact they just haven't been given proper guidance; we have guests with sensitive skin who use it just once weekly, or twice if it's a gentle dosage. Bialko: In the treatment room, you can avoid an itching, burning and peeling response by pre-conditioning the skin with alternative exfoliation treatments, e.g., a professional exfoliant that combines retinol with other resurfacing agents such as salicylic acid. Clients can also prepare their skin and build a tolerance by using a low-strength retinol at home prior to treatments. This helps the skin produce receptors that bind to the retinoid molecules, resulting in less irritation. Another option is to mix the retinol with a buffer cream until the skin is acclimated to the ingredient. For instance, Dermalogica's Overnight Retinol Repair comes with its own Buffer Cream that allows clients to customize the amount of retinol they apply. We advise starting with one part retinol to three parts buffer, and eventually reversing the ratios. They should also keep the skin hydrated and use soothing botanicals—such as aloe vera, licorice and lavender—to minimize irritation. And they must wear a physical sunscreen at all times during the day, as their skin will be more sensitive to UV exposure. How do you incorporate the ingredient into professional treatments? Deresh: Our non-acidic retinol, vitamin C and peptide peel is part of our most popular facial, where it's used in conjunction with microdermabrasion. There's no downtime or stinging, and clients leave feeling fi rmed, plumped and glowing. By adding in the retinol, we're helping to regenerate their skin from the inside out, and they'll feel the effects of the facial for that much longer. Vara: Retinol comes in a variety of forms; our professional treatments—Murad Youth Building Facial, Vitamin C Anti-Oxidant Firming Facial and Anti-Aging Resurgence © GETTY IMAGES spotlight Ilike Organic Skin Care Tomato A•C•E Booster Mask Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum HydroPeptide Nimni Cream "Clients frequently come in feeling that they can't tolerate retinol, when in fact they just haven't been given proper guidance."

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