AUG 2017

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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[ 22 ] • # dayspamagazine • august 2017 Facial—include the less aggressive retinyl palmitate, which helps instantly plump the skin to improve the appearance of fi ne lines and wrinkles. Bialko: Retinol can be incorporated into professional exfoliation services to promote skin regeneration while evening out tone and texture, and a retinol serum can be applied under a mask or moisturizer to address signs of aging. For increased penetration and results, use the serum with an electrical modality for a few minutes: microcurrent for specifi c iontophoresis, ultrasound in the penetration mode, or galvanic iontophoresis on the positive polarity. It's important to note that peeling and/or fl akiness may occur with use of retinol in professional treatments, and clients must wear a (minimum) SPF 30 and avoid direct sunlight after the service. Li: During facials, I apply retinol after performing microdermabrasion. This reduces the appearance of shallow scars, diminishes fi ne lines and yields a healthy, vibrant glow. I also use it with galvanic current so that it penetrates deeper into the epidermis to stimulate cells, increase circulation and soften blackheads. This type of treatment can be performed on dry, oily, sensitive, combination and sun damaged skin. Where does retinol fi t into a complete skincare regimen? Bialko: Retinol should be used at night for maximum safety and effi cacy. The molecule is not photostable, meaning it breaks down in the presence of ultraviolet light (reducing its benefi cial effects). Additionally, retinol can make skin more sensitive and vulnerable to ultraviolet exposure, so we recommend applying sunscreen every morning to defend against sunburn and hyperpigmentation. When using retinol, apply directly onto clean skin; we don't advise layering it with other treatment products. Li: The best time to use retinol is before bed, as skin rejuvenates the most while we're sleeping. To reap the full benefi t, it should be applied after cleansing and toning, and before any other nighttime moisturizers, eye creams and serums. I always warn guests never to use retinol in the morning to avoid irritation and dryness due to sun exposure. Deresh: When it comes to home care, it's important to fi nd out all you can about each client's lifestyle and exercise routine, which can affect the potential results or ramifi cations of retinol use. Are they outside running every day? Do they frequently go without sunscreen? This can infl uence how you guide your guests. If a client is jetting off to Bora Bora, for example, we always recommend they leave the retinol at home and grab an extra sunscreen product instead. For our guests who use retinol nightly and/ or at higher levels, we advise stopping for a week or two every few months to allow it to be reintroduced to the skin. A good tip is to make sure they're also applying the retinol to their neck and décolleté, as that's an extension of their face. u RETINOL PRODUCTS Rhonda Allison SynErgy A Pevonia Micro-Retinol Essential Serum RapidEye Firming Wrinkle Smoother True Results PM Night Cream Sanitas RejuvenA "Retinol can be incorporated into professional exfoliation services to promote skin regeneration." © GETTY IMAGES spotlight

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