AUG 2017

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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Page 27 of 84 • august 2017 • [ 25 ] Bad Air Days Air pollution isn't new, but our understanding of how it aff ects the skin is still developing. Scientifi c data on the subject has been accumulating steadily since 2010; the latest National Institutes of Health study published in May 2017 (Experimental Dermatology, Roxanna Koohgoli, et al) sums up the research to date, concluding that, "Air pollution has a detrimental impact on skin and can exacerbate skin disease." Studies indicate that continued exposure to urban pollutants such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and ozone are associated with brown spots, wrinkles and rosacea. Aside from lobbying to demand better air quality, what's to be done? A lot, according to skincare experts. Protect and fortify the skin. "We particularly like new ingredients that off er a shield against harmful air pollutants," says Darren Landis, founder of Hyalogic. Look for cosmetics with silicone fi lm- formers like silicone acrylate, resin wax and a trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethicone blend. TRI-K Industries' PhytoVie Defense, a new entry in this category, is a botanical-based polymer made from tung wood and rapeseed oil. Formulations containing these new polyfi lms are smooth, comfortable to wear and have been shown to keep harmful PAHs from penetrating the skin. "Toxic pollutants can also create reactive oxygen species, or ROS [which can damage and infl ame the skin]," adds Landis. "Look for formulations that include antioxidants like glutathione and vitamin C, which can minimize ROS." Glutathione is a potent anti-infl ammatory tripeptide that exists naturally in the skin; it keeps free radicals in check, so low levels of glutathione are associated with oxidative damage, resulting in fi ne lines and pigmentation changes. One new ingredient by Active Concepts, AC CytoPure PF, is derived from microalgae and aims to protect skin from environmental damage by raising glutathione levels. Cleanse often, but gently. Washing pollutants away is an obvious solution but we may need to change the way we cleanse, suggests John Kulesza, founder and president of Young Pharmaceuticals. "Out with harsh detergents like sodium lauryl sulfate and in with gentle, sugar-derived cleansers like decyl glucoside," he recommends. "Gentler cleansers remove only surface lipids and debris, not the skin's natural internal lipid barrier." Preserving skin barrier function is essential to long-term health, points out microbiologist Neal Kitchen, PhD, chief operating offi cer of HydroPeptide. "We cannot cleanse in a way that strips important nutrients, probiotic components and protective skin layers," he cautions. "The slightly acidic pH of normal skin (5.5) provides an 'acid mantle' important to barrier function that should be supported by a compatible cleanser," adds Charlene DeHaven, MD, clinical director of iS CLINICAL, who has written extensively on issues related to skin aging. Treat the damage. Again, the trend is toward gentler products to correct oxidative damage like dark spots. One recent addition is a probiotic melanin regulator called Brightenyl. "It evens skin tone by using the body's own skin microbiota to reduce infl ammation and prevent hyperpigmentation," says Kitchen. "Our stratum microbium is a symbiotic connection with millions of microbial organisms that communicate and regulate conditions on our skin. It's important to be mindful of this relationship with the products we use." Hot Delivery System For years the latest in skincare delivery has focused on microencapsulation and nanoparticles. These are still important, of course, but today's consumers are fi xated on a macro delivery concept: masks. Repêchage founder Lydia Sarfati named it the "biggest spa trend for 2017," and data from international research group DataMonitor listed face masks as one of the world's fastest-growing skincare categories. Why? Masks are visual and they off er immediate results. They're a hit on YouTube and other social media because seeing is believing. New ingredients like carbonation, which foams away impurities, and foil backing, which aids in the penetration of actives, are contributing to the phenomenon. "Masks are not only popular, they work—in some cases better than some treatment creams and lotions," says Kulesza. "Masks, especially those made from special clays or polymers, create occlusion on the skin. This causes the stratum corneum to swell, creating channels that permit ingredients to penetrate deeper." Masks are migrating to other body parts too. Manufacturers are off ering dozens of new mask-like products designed for lips, hands, feet— even breasts and buttocks! Savvy spa owners are creating extensive mask menus that involve "Gentler cleansers remove only surface lipids and debris, not the skin's natural internal lipid barrier."

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