AUG 2017

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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Page 28 of 84 [ 26 ] • # dayspamagazine • august 2017 headlining acts every spa department in selling mask treatments, and are also recognizing the retail opportunity of these portable packets: Masks are a great way for clients to take the spa experience home and throw in a bag for a vacation or business trip. Staying Power Hyaluronic acid (HA) and retinoids aren't new ingredients, but they are still very much in the news. "They're mainstays of professional skin care," says Kulesza. "HA keeps water in the skin, making it softer and smoother, and retinoids stimulate molecular changes to make the skin act and look younger." In 2016, Diff erin Gel (adapalene, Galderma) became the fi rst prescription strength retinoid to gain FDA approval for over the counter (OTC) use; it was the fi rst OTC acne active approved since the 1980s. "Adapalene is a game changer in acne treatment," says Kulesza. "Combined with an inexpensive benzoyl peroxide, it off ers better results for patients with persistent acne." "HA occurs naturally throughout the body but is especially abundant in the skin," says Landis. "Young skin contains lots of HA, but the skin's ability to produce HA decreases with age, leaving it drier. We're currently working on products that can encourage the body's own production of HA." Meanwhile, HA is key to keeping skin looking young and healthy. Versatility is another reason for increased interest: HA's molecular structure means it appears in short or long chains, and can even be freeze- dried. "Each of these has a diff erent use in skin products," says Dr. DeHaven. "Some short-chain HAs may be absorbed through the skin and incorporated into its ground substance [a gel-like substance that surrounds cells and helps hydrate the skin]. Longer-chain HAs are too large to be absorbed, but are able to provide excellent surface hydration due to their intrinsic ability to bind water. Freeze-dried microspheres are included in skincare products for immediate wrinkle reduction. These tiny particles nestle into deep wrinkles where they absorb transepidermal water loss (TEWL) that would otherwise evaporate." In addition to ingredients that stimulate the body's production of its own HA, "technologies that improve our delivery of HA into the skin will be a key component of future skin care," adds Kitchen. © GETTY IMAGES s kin H

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