Dayspa

OCT 2017

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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[ 22 ] • # dayspamagazine • october 2017 Dermalogica Oil Control Lotion dermalogica.com Why it's a skincare all star: Willow bark has keratolytic properties, meaning it breaks down dead skin cells and gently exfoliates by dissolving pore-clogging impurities. Brian Goodwin, international trainer for Éminence, says the ingredient can also soothe and treat painful acne lesions. "The salicin in willow bark is a lipophilic beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that can penetrate skin oil and dissolve blackheads, control future oil production and inhibit bacteria," he explains. "It has a beautiful pore minimizing eff ect as well." Delia McLinden, vice president of sales & business development at FarmHouse Fresh, points out that willow bark is a powerful astringent, anti-infl ammatory and soothing ingredient, and is ideal for use on "troubled skin." Maryline Desjardins, senior director of marketing at Gene Juarez Salons & Spas, with 10 locations in Washington, adds that willow bark works on acneic complexions without pesky side eff ects like dryness or irritation. "It balances and improves texture, and purifi es and detoxifi es the skin," she says. In addition, many products combine willow bark extract with an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) exfoliant—say, glycolic or lactic acid—to reveal the newer, younger-looking cells underneath thicker, more sun-damaged skin. That combination also stimulates collagen and elastin production to minimize fi ne lines and wrinkles. In the treatment room: Karen Terranova, general manager at New York City's Great Jones Spa, often reaches for Jurlique's Purity Specialist Treatment Mask, which contains willow bark extract, for clients with oily, acneic or combination skin in her customizable Signature Facial (60 min./$135) or Deep Cleansing Facial (60 min./$160, 90 min./$215). "It's gentle enough to slough off dead cells and help prep congested skin prior to extractions," she says. Sometimes she uses it under steam, sometimes as a fi nishing mask for a radiant glow. "Willow bark is a gentle alternative to some of the harsher exfoliants on the market," she comments, "due to its wonderful anti-infl ammatory and antiseptic properties." The Elements Spa & Salon at Crystal Springs Resort in Hamburg, New Jersey, incorporates the FarmHouse Fresh Sand Your Ground mask in its Detoxifying Desert Silk treatment (50 min./$125). "The dual scrub and mask means less time off the treatment table for showering," says director of spas Jason Scharff , adding that thanks to the medium-grain formulation and willow bark, the product is able to exfoliate without irritating sensitive skin. At The Woodhouse Day Spa Nolan Creek in Belton, Texas, owner Kayla Potts reports: "We love using the mask in treatments as the willow bark extract helps exfoliate while minimizing breakouts and pores. The guest's skin looks smooth, radiant and refreshed." Estheticians at Gene Juarez employ Éminence's Clear Skin Willow Bark Booster- Serum, alone or added to a mask or moisturizer, in the spa's European Facial (30 min./ $65, 90 min./$170), as well as its GJ Signature Facial (60 min./$150, 90 min./$185) for clients with acne. It works wonders for breakouts and congestion regardless of skin type, Desjardins notes. u Repêchage BIOLIGHT Brightening Daytime Protection Cream repechage.com Jurlique Purity Specialist Treatment Mask jurlique.com FarmHouse Fresh Sand Your Ground farmhousefreshgoods.com Éminence Clear Skin Willow Bark Booster-Serum eminenceorganics.com Elina Organics Herbal Toner elinaorganics.com WILLOW BARK PRODUCTS A White willow bark is harvested in the early spring— when its color ranges from yellow to fl aming red—for inclusion in herbal medicines. A Willow trees originated in China; today, the bark sold in the U.S. and Europe usually includes a mix of white, purple and crack willow extracts. A Ancient Chinese civilizations used willow shoots to treat rheumatic fever, colds, hemorrhages and goiter. QUICK FACTS S © GETTY IMAGES in focus

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