DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.
Issue link: https://dayspamagazine.epubxp.com/i/918922
T h e B a s i c s O i l y S k i n D r y S k i n S e n s i t i v e S k i n [ 50 ] • # dayspamagazine • january 2018 The Basics It's best to cleanse twice a day. People with very dry skin or rosacea (redness and sensitivity) may be able to skip their morning cleanse, as long as they aren't very oily. When it comes to technique, they should use a circular motion following the direction of lymph fl ow in the face, which is up and outward toward the ears. Remind them never to wash their face with anything not specifi cally intended for that use, such as shampoo or shower gel. Oily Skin For oily skin types, foaming cleansers are a good bet as they contain detergents that help strip away excess oil. These guests often have bigger pores that are more likely to become congested with oil and dirt, in which case salicylic acid is a well-tolerated and eff ective ingredient for unclogging pores. After cleansing, even oily skin may feel dry for up to 45 minutes, which is about how long it takes the oil glands to produce enough sebum to cover the skin with a moisturizing occlusive layer. So remind your patrons to wait at least that long in order to assess whether their skin needs a moisturizer— even if their skin seems dry or tight. If they moisturize right away, they run the risk of their oil glands ramping up again. Dry Skin Clients with dry skin should use nonfoaming cleansers, and avoid detergents and foaming agents, which can strip away the small amount of natural lipids in the skin and injure the barrier. If these guests have rosacea, acne or sensitive skin, they should also stay away from scrubs, loofahs and mechanical exfoliation. If they complain of a lack of radiance or dullness—and don't have sensitive skin—then using a mild scrub will make a big diff erence. All dry skin types are best suited to milk or oil-based cleansers, or if the skin is extremely dry, a rich cream cleanser or cleansing oil. Sensitive Skin In my Baumann Skin Types classifi cation system, I've categorized four main subtypes of sensitive skin—acne, rosacea, stinging and allergic—all of which lend themselves to a slightly diff erent cleansing routine. However, each of these concerns requires a cleanser that will help reduce infl ammation. Acne: Benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid cleansers are generally recommended for acne-prone skin. The former kills acne-causing bacteria, while the latter is lipophilic and able to penetrate and clear out the oil in the follicle. The fi rst step in choosing a cleanser for these clients is determining if their skin is oily or dry. Oilier skin does better with salicylic acid (which can be drying), whereas dry types respond better to an alpha hydroxy acid cleanser like glycolic acid. Glycolic acid is hydrophilic, so it's water-soluble and therefore doesn't aff ect the skin's natural oil; it lowers the skin's pH, which helps kill bacteria and exfoliate. e ansers are n detergents F or o il y s ki n a g oo d b th at h o ft b p as s even moistur i l d i sensitive to mil k o il. y s oph i l ic , Adding Actives Clients may ask if there's any merit to using a cleanser containing ingredients like antioxidants, retinol, peptides or stem cells. Unfortunately, because cleansers (and their actives) don't stay on the skin very long, benefi ts are limited to lowering pH (e.g., glycolic acid), exfoliating, killing bacteria and depositing lipids. © GETTY IMAGES a clean slate