DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.
Issue link: https://dayspamagazine.epubxp.com/i/918922
E x f o l i a t i o n [ 52 ] • # dayspamagazine • january 2018 a clean slate People with dry skin often can't tolerate benzoyl peroxide, but combining the ingredient with a moisturizer may help. In fact, acne-fi ghting cleansers can be irritating in general, so you can help clients mitigate this by incorporating moisturizers with soothing ingredients such as aloe, chamomile or green tea. Rosacea: This skin condition can be particularly challenging to manage: In some cases, even washing with water can infl ame the skin. But there are some specifi c cleansing tips that can help keep redness, fl ushing and other common fl are-ups at bay. Anyone struggling with rosacea should avoid using scrubs and other friction- causing products or ingredients, as well as very hot or very cold water; instead, use only tepid water and gentle cleansing motions. These clients should seek out cleansers and moisturizers that contain anti-infl ammatory ingredients like argan oil, niacinamide, resveratrol, feverfew, licorice extract, green tea and oatmeal. Ingredients with a low pH, such as glycolic acid and vitamin C, may cause stinging. If their rosacea fl ares during cleansing and their skin is generally not oily, advise the guest to cleanse only at night. Stinging: When washing sensitive skin that burns or stings, clients must avoid products containing alcohol, witch hazel, vitamin C, benzoic acid, and other acids like lactic and glycolic, which can cause irritation. (People with rosacea often also suff er from skin stinging.) Allergic: Contact dermatitis is characterized by a sudden skin rash or other adverse skin reaction caused by exposure to an allergen or irritant. Dry skin types are more likely to have allergic reactions to skincare ingredients. When dealing with contact dermatitis, fi rst try to identify the rash's cause. You may need to refer the client to a dermatologist who can perform a patch test and determine the exact culprit. (Most reactions to skin care are caused by products' fragrances or preservatives.) The treatment is simple: Avoid the ingredient. Exfoliation There are two types of exfoliating cleansers: mechanical and chemical. Chemical exfoliators use low pH acids to dissolve the proteins that bind cells together; on the other hand, mechanical exfoliators use force to break these protein bonds, which can damage other proteins, lipids and membrane structures, therefore causing infl ammation. Exfoliating cleansers will strip dead cells and debris from the skin's top layer and increase the ingredient penetration of subsequent serums and creams. Unfortunately, today's clients may be tempted to overdo it. Be on the lookout for the sandpaper-type rash that indicates over-exfoliation, and tell those guests to discontinue their current skin-sloughing regimen. Advise them to choose only one of the items below, rather than two or three: • A retinoid or retinol product • A facial brush • A cleansing scrub • A product containing glycolic or salicylic acid • An at-home peel • Microdermabrasion, whether at home or professional • A facial sponge, such as Buf-Puf Traveling Light Clients need increased skin protection when they travel, so they shouldn't exfoliate at all. Unless they're very oily, a nonfoaming cleanser (or cleansing wipes) will allow their skin to retain the protective lipids that will prevent dehydration on a plane or in a dry climate. s e n c ates Peo p t he in g r e can inc c ha w Th a nti-in fl am l icorice extract acid and vitamin C k i i ll t i l © GETTY IMAGES