AUG 2018

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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[ 44 ] • # dayspamagazine • august 2018 gene genius Damage Control DNA damage can occur for many reasons, including normal aging as well as environmental factors, such as exposure to UV radiation, cell phone and computer screens, and toxic pollutants like arsenic, says Dr. Moy. "Usually, cells can enzymatically reverse or repair this damage, but when they're unsuccessful this can lead to various aging processes and diseases, including cancer," he continues. Antioxidants are among the most widely used skin- saving ingredients because of their ability to protect cells from environmental aggressors—however, DNA repair enzymes could soon take center stage. The body already produces these enzymes naturally, but production tapers off after about age 30. That said, studies from the National Institutes of Health (NIH) have shown that topically applied DNA repair enzymes help reverse damage from UV exposure, and hence, make skin appear more youthful and may even help combat skin cancer. Inspired by research dating back to 2001, Dr. Moy's quest to create a topical cream that could address some of the eff ects of sun damage led to the development of his DNAEGF Renewal skincare line. The products contain enzymes engineered from marine and botanical sources, such as plankton, and are delivered using liposomes to deeply penetrate the skin and help repair DNA damage including brown spots and wrinkles. "If you can increase DNA repair, your skin will look younger," stresses Dr. Moy. "It isn't just prevention—it reverses past damage." Keeping Time Another exciting area of DNA-based skin care has to do with clock genes. In recent years, scientists— including researchers who published their fi ndings in Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences (PNAS) in 2012—have discovered that, like other organs, our skin has an internal clock (or clock gene) that regulates processes including cellular repair (which occurs at night) and regeneration (which takes place during the day). However, UV exposure and other environmental factors can interrupt these skin-saving scenarios, throwing off the body's internal clock. One way companies are addressing this is with tetrapeptide- 26. "This bio-engineered tetrapeptide optimizes the protection and regenerative cycle of skin, harmonizing the cellular rhythm with the circadian rhythm, which is our 24-hour cycle," says Karen Asquith, national director of education for G.M. Collin. "This ensures good coordination of skin functions in relation to UV exposure, boosting natural DNA protection during the day and repairing DNA overnight." Resetting the circadian cell cycle in this way can help prevent signs of aging and protect against skin cancer. Given how promising the evidence surrounding all of these actives has been, spas are understandably embracing DNA-based skin care. But for all the results estheticians and their clients are seeing, chances are that there will be even better, more targeted treatments on the horizon. "You need a lot of humility with science," notes Schmid. "We're really just at the beginning." u © GETTY IMAGES DNA repair enzymes help reverse damage from UV exposure, and hence, make skin appear more youthful. me of our k ( l k

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