NOV 2018

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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L e s s I s M o r e [ 42 ] • # dayspamagazine • november 2018 retinol to the rescue When it comes to acne, retinol works on multiple fronts. The increased rate of cell turnover helps prevent dead skin from clogging pores, and has been shown to unblock oil glands, suppress sebum production, reduce comedone formation and lessen the infl ammation associated with breakouts. This works to both prevent and reverse acne, while improving skin texture. Less Is More OTC retinol products typically contain 0.5 to 2 percent of the active ingredient, which is 20 times less concentrated than prescription retinoids—but potency isn't always a skin win. The prescription ve rsion acts fast, yet it can be overly drying. "While retinoids are suitable for most skin types, sensitive skin may not tolerate the stro nger formulations well," adds Dr. Klein. The OTC option is less likely to produce irritation and other side eff ects because of its lower concentration and the fact that it's converted into retinoic acid at the cellular level. So, on the whole, OTC retinol is benefi cial for most skin types, and especially sensitive and dry skin. However, plenty of retinol products tend to be misused by clients who think that more is better. "People hear retinol is good for their skin and start applying it every single night, which can result in redness, irritation and excessive desquamation," warns Stankov-Giralt. Others may also be afraid of the ingredient, as they've bought into myths that retinol will blemish skin. This makes education all the more essential. Retinol is highly eff ective, but it's not a quick fi x, so estheticians should remind spa-goers to use patience and restraint. "It must be introduced into a regimen slowly, allowing the skin time to acclimate," says Adams-Woodford, who warns that overuse can result in signs of retinoid dermatitis, a common side eff ect characterized by dryness, sensitivity and peeling. "If they aren't sure how they'll react or how strong the product is, have the client try it one night fi rst and see if they get irritated, then build up slowly to every night if their skin can handle it," suggests Dr. Klein. Additionally, pros should advise guests not to use too much—no more than a pea-sized dab for the entire face—and to "avoid the sensitive eyelids," she continues. Another important consideration is sun exposure and protection. Retinol rapidly breaks down when exposed to the sun, so clients should only use it at night on clean, dry skin, followed by a moisturizer to ensure maximum benefi ts. Again, retinol encourages cell turnover, and can therefore make skin more vulnerable © GETTY IMAGES

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