NOV 2018

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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F o r m u l a t i o n I n f o r m a t i o n [ 44 ] • # dayspamagazine • november 2018 © GETTY IMAGES to the sun and its eff ects. "Skin must be well protected from UV exposure, so guests should use a sunscreen during the day—even if they're only applying retinols at night—to avoid unwanted sensitivity and possible hyperpigmentation," says Dunn. If clients follow these recommendations and still notice excessively dry skin, fl aking or peeling, Dr. Klein advises them to further "slow down how much and how often it's used." They can also apply an OTC hydrocortisone cream to calm infl ammation, she notes. Another way to nix irritation is by mixing a pea-sized amount of retinol with a super moisturizing night cream. "With that added layer of hydration, the risk of sensitivity is lower," says Stankov-Giralt. Of course, guests with especially sensitive skin or those who struggle with infl ammatory skin disorders may have to follow an even more specialized protocol. "At one time it was believed that all regenerating ingredients should be avoided with conditions such as rosacea and eczema; however, we now know that clients who suff er from these issues can experience the benefi ts of retinol," says Dunn. She advises such spa-goers to strengthen their skin fi rst with a regimen of hydrating products containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid (HA), sodium PCA, bisabolol and allantoin. That said, there are still some whose skin won't tolerate retinol at all, in which case they should simply avoid it. Formulation Information Creating eff ective retinol products can be challenging for several reasons. "Retinol is naturally unstable and quick to interact with other ingredients. It tends to oxidize quickly and lose effi cacy," says Dunn. Air and light exposure can negatively eff ect the retinol, adds Stankov-Giralt, so packaging is also important. Given these issues, formulators are working on ways to help stabilize retinol, as well as reduce the potential for irritation or compromised effi cacy once it's been applied. The newest approaches include encapsulated, time-released and nanoparticle formulas in airless pump containers. It's also common to blend retinol with ingredients that keep it from breaking down: "Vitamins C and E help stabilize retinol and preserve the skin's density and nutrients," says Dunn, adding that HA can help off set dryness while better distributing the retinol. In addition to the currently available formulations designed specifi cally for acne, hyperpigmentation and aging, the next generation of retinols will become even more tailored to individuals, says Adams-Woodford. "This could be via genomic testing to select already available products for a particular patient, or developing ingredient combinations that would best serve a person's unique needs," she posits. Not that retinol in its current form is going anywhere. "It will continue to be one of the most trusted gold standards in skin care," concludes Adams-Woodford. u DO be proactive: Clients can start using retinol in their early 30s! DO store products in a cool, dark place. DO apply to the neck and décolleté, as well. DON'T use retinoids if pregnant or breastfeeding. DON'T layer with benzoyl peroxide, which can deactivate the retinol. DON'T apply retinol during a rosacea fl are-up. RETINOL DOÕS AND DONÕTS retinol to the rescue

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