JAN 2019

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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Januar y 2019 • 49 © GETTY IMAGES TYPES I AND II (LIGHTER SKIN TONES) Common concerns: sun damage, wrinkles, rosacea It should come as no surprise that fair-complexioned clients tend to be more sensitive to sun exposure. "I worry about skin cancer with these types—especially melanoma or basal cell carcinoma, which are slow- growing cancers, but can be locally aggressive," says Neelam Vashi, MD, founder and director of the Center for Ethnic Skin and assistant professor of dermatology at Boston University School of Medicine. "If they have to be removed, they can also cause scarring." The obvious solution is sunscreen—but not just any sunscreen. "I recommend broad spectrum SPF 30 or above, and reapplication every few hours," says Dr. Vashi. "I like the ones with physical blockers, like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and there are now sunscreens with iron oxide, which has a tint to it." Annual or semiannual skin checks with a dermatologist are a must as well. Paler complexions are also more prone to wrinkles, creases and sagging because ultraviolet (UV) rays do more harm to skin with less melanin—especially as these clients age and produce less collagen and sebum, resulting in thinner, drier, less elastic skin. To remove damaged cells on the skin's surface, Dr. Vashi opts for laser treatments. "I have a lot of fl exibility when I'm treating lighter skin tones because with less melanin, there is a lower risk of scarring or creating more damage," she says, adding that which laser is best will vary based on the age and skin condition of the client. Rosacea is another common concern for lighter skin tones. "Understanding rosacea is tricky and it's sometimes misdiagnosed," says Oh. "The skin barrier is often weakened and can't prevent water loss, so it becomes overheated and you see the dilation of capillaries." Although the condition can't be cured, Oh says it can be managed. "We focus on hydration by addressing barrier function," he notes. "There are a lot of ingredients that can build that barrier back up over time." Specifi cally, Oh suggests anti-redness, anti- infl ammatory and hydrating ingredients, including ceramide NP, niacinamide, Infl acin, silymarin and hyaluronic acid (HA). "Retinol is also essential for improving cell turnover," he adds, "but those with rosacea should use a gentle formula, such as PCA Skin Retinol Treatment for Sensitive Skin." Paler complexions are more prone to wrinkles and sagging because ultraviolet rays do more harm to skin with less melanin.

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