JAN 2019

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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50 @dayspamagazine • Januar y 2019 © GETTY IMAGES Clients in the middle of the skin spectrum tend to be more susceptible to solar lentigines, i.e., age spots or liver spots, especially as they get older and skin is less resilient. "Once the skin starts thinning, infl ammation from UV rays causes more trauma and damage," says Oh, who addresses the situation with a comprehensive approach. "We may do chemical peels, but we also have to focus on the aging part of the equation." Some of Oh's favorite ingredients for treating this type of hyperpigmentation include L-ascorbic acid, retinol, hydroquinone and kojic acid. "These promote cell turnover, are powerful melanogenesis inhibitors and restore collagen production, thus strengthening and brightening the skin," he notes. Melasma, often referred to as "the mask of pregnancy," is another kind of hyperpigmentation faced more frequently by those with medium skin tones. "Above all else, I let patients with melasma know that there is no cure, but it can be controlled," says Dr. Vashi. "The most important aspect of treatment is sun protection." The dermatologist also treats the condition with ingredients like hydroquinone. "It's a lightening agent that's in a lot of over-the-counter and prescription creams and gels," she says. "After topicals, I suggest chemical peels with alpha or beta hydroxy acids. We use prescription-strength peels that act as exfoliants, which even out skin tone. I perform microneedling, as well, which helps further pull out the pigment." TONE DEPTH TYPE I TYPE II TYPE IV TYPE III TYPE V TYPE VI Skin Color Hair Color Aways burns Usually burns, tans with diffi culty Rarely burns, easily tans Sometimes burns, sometimes tans Almost never burns, always tans Always tans Ivory/pale with red undertones Light/beige Olive or light brown; Mediterranean undertones Fair with golden undertones Dark brown or black Black Blonde or red Blonde Dark brown Dark blonde or light brown Dark brown or black Black Blue Green or blue Dark brown Hazel or light brown Dark brown Darkest brown Eye Color Sun Reaction Developed in 1975, the scale is a general guideline to assess how skin reacts when exposed to ultraviolet light. Understanding the FITZPATRICK SCALE Class TYPES III AND IV (MEDIUM SKIN TONES) Common concerns: age spots, melasma, acne

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