FEB 2019

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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POTENT PROTOCOLS As beauty ingredients go, peptides are relatively expensive; Boghosian estimates that adding high- quality ones to a day cream or serum increases the manufacturing cost by about 25 percent. That's largely due to the fact that although peptides do occur naturally, those used for cosmetic purposes are synthesized from amino acid chains arranged into particular sequences—a process that requires precision and time in the lab. To get the most bang for their buck, formulators and estheticians alike need to be discriminating about which ones they use. Boghosian favors the botanically derived acetyl hexapeptide-3 (trade name Argireline), a neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide that has a Botox-like effect due to its interference with the proteins that facilitate facial muscle contractions. One study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science all the way back in 2002 examined Argireline and found that an emulsion containing 10 percent of the synthetic hexapeptide reduced wrinkle depth up to 30 percent upon 30 days of treatment. "Argireline is an anti-wrinkle peptide that emulates the action of currently used botulinum neurotoxins (BoNTs)," the study authors concluded. "Therefore, this hexapeptide represents a biosafe alternative to BoNTs in cosmetics." POWER TO THE PEPTIDES 54 @dayspamagazine • Februar y 2019 INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT A quick look at some of the most popular peptides in skin care. Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline): A neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide found to reduce wrinkle depth with a Botox-like effect. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9/11 (Dermican): A signal peptide reported to stimulate collagen type I and keratinocyte cell growth for thicker, fi rmer skin. Carnosine: A signaling dipeptide and well- documented aqueous antioxidant with wound healing activity. Copper Tripeptide (GHK-Cu): One of the most well-examined carrier peptides, found to regenerate and heal skin and other tissues. Hexapeptide-11: A signal peptide found to improve elasticity after a twice-daily application for four weeks. Hexapeptide-14: A signal peptide that stimulates cell migration, collagen synthesis and fi broblast proliferation, reducing fi ne lines and wrinkles. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl): One of the most widely used signal peptides, found to boost the production of elastin and collagen for an improvement in roughness and wrinkles. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Rigin): A signal peptide that provides anti-infl ammator y benefi ts after exposure to UVB rays, with wrinkle reduction documented after six months. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1: A signal peptide (also called pal-GHK and palmitoyl oligopeptide) for collagen renewal, comparable to retinoic acid but without causing irritation. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3/5: A signaling peptide that boosts collagen synthesis and decreases collagen breakdown for an improvement in wrinkles and texture. Pentapeptide-3 (Vialox): A neurotransmitter- inhibiting peptide derived from snake venom that reduced wrinkles and roughness after 28 days. Pentapeptide-18 (Leuphasyl): A neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide that reduces fi ne lines, moisturizes, improves fi rmness and tone, and extends the effects of Botox. Tetrapeptide-21: Also called GEKG, a signal peptide that increases collagen, hyaluronic acid and fi bronectin to improve skin texture. Tetrapeptide PKEK: A skin-lightening signal peptide that reduces UVB-induced pigmentation. Tripeptide-10 Citrulline (Decorinyl): A signaling tetrapeptide that specifi cally targets collagen fi ber organization. SOURCE: "Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results," Cosmetics, May 22, 2017

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