Dayspa

NOV 2013

DAYSPA is the magazine of spa management. Spa owners and spa managers turn to DAYSPA for spa management trends, spa management tips and more.

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BUILDING A BETTER BARRIER cause of barrier compromise. "The skin barrier's cells are rooted within the epidermis, and migrate through its layers to the surface, a process that takes four weeks in healthy young adults," explains Nicoll. "As we age, the process slows, so our skin barrier breaks down, which causes the epidermis to thin. This thinning, in turn, increases our vulnerability to environmental elements that contribute to visible signs of aging." The skin also produces less sebum with age, disrupting the hydrolipidic barrier. Wounds, trauma and illness may cause the barrier to become compromised as well. Ditto environmental pollutants, which dissolve the hydro- "When temperatures drop, people start taking long, hot showers and using central heating and space heaters, which can really dry out the barrier." lipidic film that covers the stratum corneum, thereby exposing our skin to airborne pollutants. Over-exfoliation is another culprit. "The practice of exfoliating is designed to break bonds between cells, but you don't want that action to get down to your barrier and cause damage," says Dermalogica's King. Powerful antiaging actives can wreak havoc too. "Mature clients are often seduced by the ability of AHAs and Retin A to reduce wrinkles; however, overuse of these agents disrupts the skin's barrier," points out Karen Asquith, G.M. Collin's director of education. This actually causes the skin to become sensitized and unable to retain moisture." To ameliorate the potentially compromising effects of powerful treatments, Sarfati emphasizes the importance of neutralizing the skin post-procedure, to restore the barrier. "Know the possible adverse effects of all the products you are using, and don't use them on anyone with a compromised barrier," she stresses. Most experts advise skincare pros to avoid products containing high levels of surfactants, acid, alcohol and fragrance, especially when Old Man Winter comes calling. "When temperatures drop, people start taking long, hot showers and using central heating and space heaters, all of which can really dry out the barrier," Hale's Warren says. "When this happens, pliability is lost, How does our world's gradual trend toward more extreme temperatures stand to affect how we care for skin's barrier? Chemists are hard at work answering this question. "Severe a wea weather shifts and pollution are affecting our skin, without a doubt," ff ti says Murad's Jennifer Fredette. "We're researching higherperformance ingredients to match these climate changes, which is why we've started adding a proprietary agent called RepleniCell to all our moisturizers. It helps skin attract water, facilitates its binding within the skin's surface and strengthens the skin's barrier to help it retain this water." Phytomer's Angela Eriksen-Stanley reports that her company's 56 DAYSPA | NOVEMBER 2013 chemists are focusing on the potential of algae extract and pheohydrane formulas, which lend added protection against increasing amounts of external aggressors. "Algae fibers sit on the skin, like a mesh, but also get sucked into the skin, where they help reinforce the barrier," she explains. Armeria maritima, a plant that grows along the seashore near industrial sites, is another growing power player. "It can capture heavy metals in carbon from the air and water and help clean up the environment," says Eriksen-Stanley. "In skin care, we're turning to these extracts to help create an anti-pollution shield. Armeria absorbs into the surface and helps neutralize pollution as it comes into contact with the epidermis." Climate-cognizant skin care appears to be a new and growing field within the industry—stay tuned for more on this front! © ISTOCKPHOTO.COM T The Climate Change Question

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