Dayspa

NOV 2013

DAYSPA is the magazine of spa management. Spa owners and spa managers turn to DAYSPA for spa management trends, spa management tips and more.

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toxins, but it never gets dehydrated!" she says. "Scientists discovered that its skin contains water binders that mimic the natural moisture factor. So, extracting and applying such components can help our skin hold on to water." In addition to maintaining clients' internal moisture, you'll want to rebuild compromised barriers' structure. So if skin lacks calcium, and therefore the protein bonds binding keratinocytes to the barrier have been broken too quickly, "Topical calcium helps to reinforce those bonds," says Eriksen-Stanley. Elizabeth Murchison, director of education for Guinot, describes how essential fatty acids—omega-6 in particular—carry regenerating and restructuring properties, in addition to hydration. "Sunflower oils, which are rich in omegas, reinforce the barrier while reducing sensitivities that can arise from a compromised barrier," she says. Sothys' Rushworth cites sources of Nutri-Omega 3-6-9, in particular echium oil, plus phytosterols and pichia polysaccharides—obtained from the yeast Pichia anomala using biotechnology—as key ingredients for repairing the barrier. Low-pH lactic acid can be used to renew the basal cells while promoting the dayspamagazine.com/freeinfo • Use FreeInfo #27 60 DAYSPA | NOVEMBER 2013 formation of natural moisturizing factors, according to Pevonia's Jurist. "Amino acids and polypeptides also help rebuild, and squalane reinforces skin's structure while helping to maintain proper cellular membrane functions," he says. Stemulation's Nicoll turns to polypeptides, as well as growth factors such as ©ISTOCKPHOTO.COM BUILDING A BETTER BARRIER

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