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Beautiful TONE People of Northern European ancestry, who are typically fair-skinned, seem highly prone to rosacea. Esthy Handbook: An Essential Guide for Novice or Nervous Estheticians (Harding-Bond, 2013), "Within each ethnic group lies the potential for a wide range of skin variations, issues and conditions. It's important to consider each person's skin on a case-by-case basis, as it can also be influenced by genetic background, health, diet, product use and environment." Furthermore, many people have "racially blended" skin, sharing skincare traits of various ethnicities, reminds esthetician and instructor Pamela Springer, author of Natural Radiance—A Guide for Ethnic Skin Care (Global Skin Solutions Publishing, 2009). Springer is president/CEO of Global Skin Solutions, a corrective skincare line developed for African-American, Hispanic/Latino and Asian skin, and founder of The Skin & Makeup Institute of Arizona in Peoria. "For example, I am African-American but my ancestral makeup is African, Native American, Irish and Jewish. I'm prone to burning and predisposed to skin cancer," she says. "One of my clients was Mexican and Asian, so her skin had typical Asian characteristics—sensitivities to fragrance and harsh ingredients—combined with the oily-prone skin of her Mexican heritage," Springer adds. In other words, while there are no hard-and-fast rules when it comes to treating any one skin type or tone, certain issues are more likely to be encountered among particular groups. DAYSPA spoke to experts around the country for their take on the major concerns—and suggested treatments—when caring for skin of color. › › TAKE NOTE: The idea, says Springer, is to "remove excess oil and impurities without stripping the skin of its natural oils." Steele recommends products that "affect sebum production, but don't aggravate the skin, such as a toner that helps address oil without irritating." Recommend that clients get regular professional facials—"every three weeks until skin normalizes, and then once per month," says Harding-Bond. Ask them to consider microdermabrasion too. "This treatment can't be done if the client has active acne, but is beneficial to remove roughness, diminish pores and reduce extra oils," says Susana Scott, a licensed aesthetician at Karma MedSpa in Naperville, Illinois, who specializes in treating ethnic skin. Finally, make sure you ask clients about their current skincare regimen, as they may be unwittingly exacerbating the problem with inappropriate products or practices. 40 Concern: Rosacea Certainly acne is a common scourge that strikes all skin types. However, it poses special concerns for people of color. For instance, acne is not only a common issue for people of Asian descent, but it's more apt to result in marks (hyperpigmentation) in Asian skin long after it's gone. Acne, particularly the most common type, inflammatory acne, is especially prevalent in African-American skin, although it's not usually characterized by large nodules and cysts. It does, however, often leave behind post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and keloid scarring, according to a 2010 Howard University College of Medicine study published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. The tendency of skin to become inflamed is associated with a range of causes, but ethnic background can play a role. One of the most common inflammatory skin concerns is rosacea, a chronic condition of the facial skin affecting the blood vessels and pilosebaceous units, characterized by flushing, blushing and sensitivity. People of Northern European ancestry, who are typically fair-skinned, seem highly prone to rosacea—it has even been called the "curse of the Celts." The genetic component of the disorder reinforces the tendency. Although rosacea is seen in darker-skinned clients, particularly those of mixed heritage, it's more common among fairskinned types. DAYSPA | FEBRUARY 2014 © MLADEN MITRINOVI/GETTY Concern: Acne