Dayspa

FEB 2014

DAYSPA is the magazine of spa management. Spa owners and spa managers turn to DAYSPA for spa management trends, spa management tips and more.

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Beautiful TONE TAKE NOTE: There are myriad medical-level treatments for rosacea, including laser and IPL, as well as low-dose antibiotics and prescription topicals. However, customization is key, and clients' abilities to tolerate treatments will vary. Meanwhile, advise them to use products containing gentle, soothing ingredients such as allantoin and extracts of green tea and avoid potential irritants such as alcohol, witch hazel, menthol, peppermint, eucalyptus oil, clove oil and salicylic acid. Sun block is a must for people with rosacea, and physical blocks utilizing zinc or titanium dioxide should be sought out if chemical sunscreens cause irritation. Concern: Pigmentation If there's one characteristic shared by all darker-skinned ethnic groups—African-Americans, Hispanics, Asians, Native Americans, Pacific Islanders and people of Middle Eastern descent—it's the tendency toward hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory pigmentation. The latter—persistent dark spots or patches following a breakout, acne bump, rash, scrape or use of over-the-counter products or prescription medications—is the second most common dermatologic diagnosis among African-American pigment disorders (after acne), according to researchers at Howard University College of Medicine. While the spots eventually fade, it sometimes takes years for them to disappear. "These dark spots are just areas with too much pigment," says Steele. "People with brown, tan or olive skin have more active melanocytes than those with fairer skin. When there is inflammation or trauma to the dermis, those melanocytes become overactive and make more melanin, and pigment may spill out into the surrounding skin." A common form of hyperpigmentation is melasma, which is sometimes called "the mask of pregnancy" as most cases occur in women while they're pregnant. This chronic skin disorder is "more prevalent in women with darker skin, especially those of Hispanic and Asian ancestry who live in areas of intense sunlight," says Philadelphia dermatologist Susan Taylor, M.D., who specializes in skin care for Africans, Asians, Latinos and Native Americans. She 42 DAYSPA | FEBRUARY 2014 › › is the founder and CEO of T2 Skincare, a product line that caters to women of color, and author of Dr. Susan Taylor's Rx for brown skin: Your Prescription for Flawless Skin, Hair and Nails (Armistad, 2008). She was also founding director of the Skin of Color Center at St. Luke's Roosevelt Hospital Center in New York City. Melasma is identified by light brown to grayishbrown or dark brownish-black patches, usually on the face, especially the cheeks, upper lips, chin and forehead. In addition to UV exposure, other factors that may cause or worsen melasma include pregnancy, the use of oral contraceptives and other hormonal influences. "Sometimes the pigmentation will fade after the delivery of the child or the discontinuation of birth control pills, but not always," explains Cash. TAKE NOTE: As the expression goes, "First, do no harm." Although there is a range of medical-level, in-spa and homecare treatments available to address pigmentation issues (see "Brighten Up", page 84), some preparations have the potential to worsen the problem. "The demand for bleaching creams in the U.S. has facilitated a rise in the use of illegally obtained, high-concentration hydroquinone products or high-potency corticosteroids available over the counter," report the Howard University researchers. Such products can lead to unsightly skin damage, and hydroquinone has been linked to worrisome side effects and adverse reactions. Minimizing sun exposure and using generous amounts of sunscreen are absolutely essential for pigmentation issues in skin of all colors, but it's especially important when melasma is present. "Any © ROB LEWINE/GETTY People with brown, tan or olive skin have more active melanocytes than those with fairer skin."

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