Dayspa

APR 2014

DAYSPA is the magazine of spa management. Spa owners and spa managers turn to DAYSPA for spa management trends, spa management tips and more.

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dayspamagazine.com | APRIL 2014 63 "Topical ingredients should help fi rm and thicken the skin, reduce water retention and encourage even distribution of fat deposits directly below the skin's surface," says April Zangl, CEO of HydroPeptide. However, stocking a full arsenal of smoothers is only half the battle—you still have to be able explain to clients how those cellulite-busting agents work. Here's a rundown of some standby ingredients in topical products, as well as new power players on the scene, and their purported roles in treating cellulite. • Aescin (found in horse chestnut) reduces fl uid build-up and infl ammation while increasing blood fl ow to the tissues. • Algae "promotes microcirculation and reduces excess water retention," says Elizabeth Murchison, director of education at Guinot. • Aminophyllin is primarily used as an asthma medication, but it contains a chemical compound that converts fat to heat. • Caffeine may be the best-known ingredient in topical anti-cellulite products. Studies show that it is capable of pulling fl uids out from between cells and increasing lipolysis (fat burning). • Capsicum extract (cayenne or red pepper extract) improves cellular circulation. • Cinnamon helps boost cell metabolism. • Coenzyme A helps to separate and oxidize fatty acids to loosen trapped fat cells, assisting in lipolysis. • Garcinia cambogia (tamarind), sourced from Indonesia, is a natural stimulant than can increase skin elasticity. • Ginger encourages the transport of oxygen to the tissues to optimize cells' fat-burning ability. • Glycyrrhetinic acid (derived from licorice root) "can help block cortisol at the level of adipocytes, or fat cells," says Rita Teixeira, national trainer for Silhouet-Tone. "This can help reduce fat cells' circumference." • Green coffee contains ingredients that stimulate the elimination of toxins. "It also contains chlorogenic acid, which is known to stimulate lipolysis, and it has a diuretic, hydrating and free radical-neutralizing effect," says Dr. Christian Jurist, medical director of global education for Pevonia. • Green tea is purported to have a temporary tightening effect on skin while reducing infl ammation and encouraging circulation. • Hexapeptide-39 is a peptide that "diminishes skin surface irregularities by reducing the fat nodules responsible for cellulite," says Zangl. • Ivy encourages the lipids in fat cells to revert to the bloodstream as it helps the skin absorb other components. • Myriceline is a patented herbal extract derived from bayberry that "helps to decrease the development of mature fat cells and ward off the creation of new fat deposits," says Candace Noonan, director of training for Environ Skin Care. • Paprika helps boost cell metabolism. • Soybean extract contains omegas, which are known collagen builders. • Vitamin A derivatives such as retinol can help "thicken the outer layer of skin and make uneven texture less visible," says Noonan. For a description of best-selling topical products formulated to counteract cellulite, visit dayspamagazine.com. INGREDIENT INVENTORY dayspamagazine.com/freeinfo • Use FreeInfo #42 T a r g e t i n g C e l l u l i t e 4 1 4 . i n d d 6 3 Targeting Cellulite 414.indd 63 3 / 7 / 1 4 1 2 : 3 8 P M 3/7/14 12:38 PM

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