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Points Learn the true science behind some common myths surrounding stem cell use in skincare products. By Amy E. Hamaker 44 DAYSPA | JUNE 2014 The power of active compounds from plants as healing and protective agents is a universal concept: Even today, the World Health Organization estimates that about 80% of the world's population still uses medicinal plants as its primary source of medicine. The real challenge has been gaining access to those active compounds via traditional cultivation, a process that requires large amounts of time and resources. Take echinacoside, the active compound in the well-known herb echinacea: according to Sonia Dawson, marketing manager for cosmetic ingredient developer IRB By Sederma (sederma.com), to deliver a yield of 1 kilogram of echinacoside requires a three-year soil cultivation on more than 1,100 square meters of land—and more than 1,300 tons of water to care for that land—before the roots can be collected. "There are also obstacles to optimal growth, such as soil conditions, temperature, elevation, radiation exposure and the time of year the plants are collected," Dawson adds. "These all affect the phytoactive profi le of the plant." This is why the addition of stem cells to skincare formulations has been so revolutionary: these cells offer formulators a reliable and reproducible way of gaining access to valuable plant cells. However, new science is often misunderstood—and sometimes even feared. This can cause damaging miscommunications between spa owners, estheticians and clients. "The interesting thing about stem cells is that everyone has heard of them, but many people don't understand what they are and what they do," says Boldijarre Koronczay, co-founder of Éminence. "It's human nature for people to be scared of something when they don't understand it. Twenty years ago, if you told someone that you had cancer, for instance, some people would want to wash their hands after speaking with you—thinking they could catch the disease through casual contact." The best way to combat misinformation is head on, so here's a look at the three most common myths and misconceptions about stem cells in skincare products, with answers you can share with your clients. Cell-ing © JEFF OSHIRO/GETTY C e l l - i n g P o i n t s . i n d d 4 4 Cell-ing Points.indd 44 5 / 7 / 1 4 1 : 5 4 P M 5/7/14 1:54 PM