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Cell-ing Points and cross-breeding, and it's a very deliberate reorgani- zation of the organism." Plant stem cells, however, are an extension of the plant—"They're essentially the plant without the skin," Dawson says. "We've done studies showing that all of the compounds that exist within the natural plant are within our formulations. There's no difference; with GMO [genetically modifi ed organisms], there's a defi nite difference in the chemical profi le. Genetic modulation is something in which the pharmaceuticals industry—and not the cosmetics one—is interested." "Plant stem cells are all we use, and they're in no way controversial," assert Lori Ann Griffin and An- drea Martinez, national educators for DermaQuest. "Even the plants used in the extraction process aren't destroyed, so it's more ecologically conscious than most other forms of harvesting botanicals for skin care. It's as natural as using an extract; it's just a different, and isolated, part of a plant." "There are no possible ethical issues with using plant stem cells," agrees Aleks Vranicic, esthetician and vice president of sales & technical training for Vitelle Dermatology Laboratories. "Perhaps someone who believes that fruits should only be used once they have fallen from the plant or tree would object, but for most people this isn't an issue." Instead of using genetic modifi cation, skincare manufacturers employ a variety of plant-based stem cells to achieve results. "We use nutmeg, argan and many other kinds of plants," says Koronczay. "Almost any plant can be harvested for stem cells; which one 48 DAYSPA | JUNE 2014 Instead of genetic modifi cation, skincare manufacturers employ a variety of plant-based stem cells to achieve results. Questions to Ask Choosing a stem cell skincare product line can be a daunting task, but these questions can help you refi ne your decision. How are your products made? What types of stem cells do you use? Manufacturers recommend asking about the types of stem cells that are listed as active ingredients in a formulation, and what percentage of each is used. "Just as with peptides, a certain level of stem cells are needed for results," says April Zangl, CEO and co-formulator of HydroPeptide. "Don't be shy about asking what percentage of botanical stem cells are included in the products. I would also ask how many applications are needed to achieve noticeable results. Botanical stem cells require a specifi c variety, concentration level and repetition for visible, age-defying results." "Be sure to ask if their laboratory and chemists are qualifi ed and experienced with developing botanical stem cell formulas," suggest Lori Ann Griffi n and Andrea Martinez, educators for DermaQuest. "There's more to it than simply mixing them in; they should be in their purest and most active form." Barbara Close, founder and CEO of Naturopathica, stresses the importance of clarifying the recommended shelf life and storage conditions for stem cell products. "In some cases, formulas containing stem cells can be vulnerable to extreme changes in temperature and can lose effi cacy if not stored properly," she warns. continued on page 50 GOTU KOLA ©ISTOCKPHOTO.COM GARDENIA LILAC C e l l - i n g P o i n t s . i n d d 4 8 Cell-ing Points.indd 48 5 / 6 / 1 4 1 : 2 3 P M 5/6/14 1:23 PM