Dayspa

AUG 2014

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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40 DAYSPA | AUGUST 2014 Delicate Conditions for extended periods of time, and to moisturize fre- quently," says Shapiro. "Also, like psoriasis, eczema is commonly treated with narrow-band ultraviolet light B and PUVA (psoralen, a sensitizing agent, combined with UVA light)." In the spa setting, King recommends using low- surfactant products and avoiding foaming, soapy or fragrant formulas. Helpful ingredients may include beta glucan, oat, silicone, dimethicone, lavender, licorice, chamomile, red clover and raspberry, as well as avocado, borage or argan oils. "Use emollient prod- ucts without petrochemicals as well as buttery or oily plant-derived products," she advises. "The goal is to seal in moisture and to stop potential allergens from getting into skin." Katherine Tomasso, director of brand education for Yon-Ka Paris, also points to the need for moisturizing to "maintain the softness and elasticity of the skin," adding that "treating products devoid of irritants are important adjunctive therapy." Pergar, meanwhile, recommends natural ingredients such as those in the calendula family, plus aloe vera and lavender. Lori Terwilliger, senior educator, Wilma Schumann Skin Care, reaches for products containing amino acid-rich coconut oil to soothe, while always using lukewarm—never hot —water. Kris Campbell, CEO of Tecniche, stresses the impor- tance of asking clients the right questions about life- styles, diet, allergies and medications. "We've discov- ered that many of these conditions arise when people take medication for a disease," she notes. "It's crucial to ask those questions on intake and look up contra- indications of their medications or medical treatment. An example is Tamoxifen, which some studies have linked to eczema." Advice on home care—including avoiding hot water and rough linens—is vital too, says Campbell, "to continue the results clients receive in the treatment room." C o n d i t i o n : Condition: ROSACEA Occurrence: The prevalence of rosacea varies from study to study; estimates range from 2% to 10% of the general population. It's more widely seen in people in their 30s and 40s and the elderly; it's two to three times more common in women, and occurs in all skin tones (darker skin tends to turn purplish rather than red). History: Rosacea has existed for centuries, but the term itself wasn't used until the 1800s. "It was often confused with acne, but we've since learned that ro- sacea is different and involves the vascular system," says Sam Huff, executive director of the National Rosacea Society (rosacea.org). In 2002, the society's committee established a classifi cation system with four subtypes; sufferers usually experience more than one type. In 2007, rosacea was offi cially recognized as an autoimmune disorder. Primary symptoms: Rosacea is infl ammatory and results in marked sensitivity to topical agents, soaps, etc., notes Shapiro. He points out that rosacea differs from simple redness of the face; redness is usually the result of an allergic reaction and is fl eeting, whereas rosacea is progressive and linked to sensitivity of the skin, a sensation of warmth and tingling, and potential progression to acne-like lesions. "Redness is a symptom, while rosacea is a skin disease," ex- plains Jessica Heron, national trainer at Sothys USA (sothys-usa.com). "Rosacea develops slowly over time, with symptoms including redness with pustules, fl ushing, enlarged blood vessels, lumps on the nose and itching." Yon-Ka Paris' Tomasso also cites infl am- mation as a common factor in rosacea, psoriasis and You Should Know... "Rashes, redness, fl ushing and itching—although these skin symptoms seem similar, they can signal the presence of a number of different conditions, among them rosacea, psoriasis and eczema. Triggers may include weather and temperature changes, particularly extreme heat and cold, some foods such as eggs, peanuts, fi sh, soy, wheat and dairy—and stress, dust mites, pollen and animal dander. Clients with skin irritation or skin sensitivity should seek out natural brands and ingredients like calendula, which calms and soothes delicate and sensitive skin and restores the skin's epidermal defences. Spa professionals can guide their clients by reminding them to be gentle when applying products, as rubbing the face tends to irritate reddened skin. Look for products that are free from alcohol or other harsh ingredients that can upset delicate skin. Over-washing may also cause irritation, so hot water and harsh soaps should be avoided." ÑREBECCA NICHOLLS, GLOBAL EDUCATION DIRECTOR, JURLIQUE AN OATMEAL MASK MAY SOOTHE SKIN WITH ROSACEA. © GABRIELA MEDINA/GETTY

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