Dayspa

AUG 2014

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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42 DAYSPA | AUGUST 2014 Delicate Conditions eczema. "Although the symptoms of each condition are expressed with dif- ferent lesions specifi c to the condition, skin infl ammation, including heat and redness, is very common," she notes. "These conditions weaken the skins vascular network, which can instigate an increase of skin problems including fl uid retention and sluggish drainage of the lymphatic system. When skin infl ammation is not controlled it can be one of the most permanently damag- ing factors to both the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin." Possible causes: The causes of rosacea remain unknown. "Theories point to bacteria, mites, fungus, a malfunction of connective tissue under the skin or possibly even psychological factors," says Heron. "It's likely there is no single cause, but we do know that it is genetically infl uenced and affects mostly those with lighter skin color." Rosacea, like psoriasis and eczema, can fl are up inter- mittently. Huff notes that common triggers include sun exposure, hot or cold weather, wind, humidity, indoor heat, emotional stress, strenuous exercise, alcohol, hot baths and certain skincare products. Though it's more common in women than men, men are likely to develop more severe cases (possibly through lack of seeking treatment), according to Dermalogica's King. As Huff reports, one study found microscopic Demodex mites that feed on dead skin cells present in higher numbers on people with rosacea, but it was unclear whether they were a result of the disorder or a cause. King adds that a defi ciency of cathelicidin, an antimicrobial peptide, has been noted in those with rosacea. Treatment options: Because rosacea is a progres- sive disorder, it's important to treat the issue early. "The sun is considered to play an important role in dis- ease development and progression, so protection from sunlight and using sunscreen are very important," says Shapiro. "Topical anti-infl ammatory agents, as well as topical and oral antibiotics, are helpful in some patients, while laser therapy reduces the persistent redness in many." Huff adds that the FDA recently ap- proved Mirvaso, an anti-redness topical gel, but notes that it's important for an individual to determine her triggers for optimal management of the disorder. For spa professionals, Heron believes treatments should utilize ingredients that help improve microcircu- lation, diminish redness, and soothe and protect against external aggressions. "We employ hazel and mint poly- phenols, yeast, bilberry, and a lemon and holly complex, which rebuilds the capillaries that are weakened and enlarged from the disease," she explains. Pergar similarly recommends ingredients that will help constrict blood vessels and calm skin, like horse- tail, chamomile and grape or grapeseed. King suggests avoiding heat, friction, heavy pressure or medium-level chemical peels on these clients. "Follow the mantra 'less is more', and use soothing oatmeal masks and cream cleansers," she says. "Ingredients like arnica, lavender and chamomile cool and soothe, while vi- tamin C and raspberry help reinforce capillary walls. Also, steer clients toward physical sunscreens instead of chemical ones." Bob Churchill, vice president of Shira, also favors chamomile—in particular, blue chamomile—for its soothing properties, noting that "Chamomile is proven to treat dermal irritations because of its acidic, essential oil and fl avonoid content. Blue chamomile essential oil has a high content of azulene, the active organic compound in chamomile, which boosts its anti-infl ammatory, skin-healing properties. Tracy Morin is a freelance writer and editor based in Oxford, Mississippi. You Should Know... "When working with clients who have psoriasis, eczema or rosacea, be their support system and skin coach. Go above and beyond: Take classes, do your research and be equipped. It's not just about treatments and retail sales. Give them a list of 10 things they can do at home to help the symptoms, such as breathing techniques, because we know that stress and hormone levels are intricately linked. Finally, help clients discover what their triggers are so they can avoid them." —ANNET KING, DIRECTOR OF GLOBAL EDUCATION, INTERNATIONAL DERMAL INSTITUTE CHAMOMILE OIL HAS SKIN-CALMING, ANTI-INFLAMMATORY PROPERTIES. © MARINA LOHRBACH/GETTY For more expert advice from our sources, go to dayspamagazine.com.

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