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Making Waves Sonia Boghosian, founder and CEO of Bio Jouvance, notes that light therapy traces back to the 19th century, when an Ital- ian scientist named Fubini discovered that shining red light into cells could increase the metabolic rate in their mitochondria. As mentioned earlier, this is that crucial cellular component responsible for pro- duction of ATP. Fubini's research has since been corroborated by NASA scientists, who've found that LED (light-emitting diode) energy has a simulative effect on biological cell activity. For skincare pros, Boghosian says this means that LED can help enhance collagen production; smooth wrinkles; reduce melanin produc- tion; soften scars; calm rosacea; improve acne, eczema and psoriasis; and reduce acne bacteria. LED produces twice as much light as a 60-watt light bulb and can burn for more than 50,000 hours, but does not emit heat. "LED is compressed light from the red and infrared part of the electromagnetic radiation spectrum," Boghosian explains. This light reaches low-lying cells and is absorbed through their surfaces as an ad- ditional source of energy, allowing cells to produce more ATP, which fuels them and increases lymphatic activity. "A suffi ciently high supply of cellular energy enables our skin cells to work under optimal condi- tions, and to self-heal," adds Boghosian. Crystal McElroy, national educator for Dermatude North America, points out that LED light therapy targets collagen growth while at the same time using certain lights to hone in on specifi c conditions—"from wrinkles to hydration to pigmentation problems and stem cell restoration." Hancock dubs light therapy the fastest- growing new treatment; she includes a minimum of 10 minutes' light therapy in every service. "It's benefi cial for all skin types and issues," she says. "Until the last decade, LEDs could only produce green, red and yellow light, which limited their use, but then came blue LEDs, which have since been altered to emit white light with a light-blue hue. There's also a new light source that utilizes pure white light, like the sun, along with prismatic fi lters to offer all colors of the prism, which creates com- binations suitable to help any skin issue." Infrared and near-infrared waves are also forms of light energy being channeled into esthetics services. "They're deeply penetrating and considered non-thermal," says Denise Ryan, director of clinical sales at BioPhotas. "All infrared wavelengths are invisible to the human eye and occur on the electromagnetic spectrum between shorter visible red wavelengths and lon- ger microwaves. They have the ability to penetrate deeply into human tissue for a non-thermal, therapeutic effect." More traditionally used in saunas and body treatments, infrared and near- infrared are now being employed in esthetics. "Some of their benefi ts," says Skylar Burnworth, marketing coordinator for FIT Bodywrap, "include detoxifi cation, skin rejuvenation and anti-aging." Burn- worth adds that when a client experiences infrared heat, her blood fl ow can increase to twice its normal amount. "This brings oxygen and nutrients to the skin, and releases toxins, allowing for a glowing complexion and tone," she says. And then there's photobiostimula- tion, or low-level LED light therapy. This process similarly applies light energy, but at specifi c intensities and wavelengths, to accelerate biological functions such as tissue repair and regeneration, acne improvement, and fi ne line- and wrinkle- smoothing. Ryan explains that precise wavelengths are absorbed by different molecules that act as signaling mecha- nisms for various cellular processes. "For example," she offers, "some reduce in- fl ammation, or kill bacteria, while others enhance circulation or activate fi broblasts to produce more collagen and elastin." Hancock names another rising star in the fi eld of light energy: MicroPhototherapy LHE or, as she calls it, "LED on steroids." The LHE stands for light and heat energy. "It's a light-based treatment that clears pigmentation, reduces pore size, re-textur- izes, calms rosacea, diminishes fi ne lines, tightens, and homogenizes, or brightens, the skin tone," says Hancock, explaining how MicroPhototherapy LHE emits gentle pulses of light and heat to create a mild thermal injury beneath the skin's surface. "This leads to fi broblast production and thus, new collagen formation," she says, adding, "The heat also opens pores, en- hancing absorption of any product applied after treatment." Light Therapy Celluma from BioPhotas LED (featuring blue, red and near-infrared rays) Meta-Ject FX50 from Dermatude Meta (medical and esthetic tissue activation), which is similar to micro-needling 68 DAYSPA | AUGUST 2014