APR 2016

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Page 44 of 100 42 DAYSPA | APRIL 2016 "Humans have long understood the emotional effects of fl owers," she says. "For instance, many people know if they're sad, they should smell a rose—as a culture, we collectively acknowledge that this scent is calm- ing and soothing." Although there are exceptions to every rule, general guidelines exist for choosing fl orals based on the response you're trying to evoke in clients. Pure Fiji, for example, designs its products with the intention to trigger specifi c thought associations. "Blending exotic scents of jasmine and gardenia with citrus and spice, for instance, transports clients to island holidays," says Andrée Austin, the company's co-founder. "Orange blos- som, on the other hand, harnesses the happy sparkle of tropical orange trees in full bloom. There's a lot of emotion tied up with each of the fl oral scents we utilize." Before you turn your spa into a Garden of Eden, however, keep in mind that there's a ceiling to even the most transporting scent. Research shows that most people prefer the "softer side" of fl oral fragrance. It's for this reason, notes Karen Asquith, national director of education for G.M. Collin, that her company uses specialized equipment to measure scent intensity, as well as a trained panel to evaluate products' essences. "This ensures they're not overly in- tense, and would thus appeal to the majority of consumers," she says. PICKING FAVORITES Floral ingredients have been staples of medicine throughout the ages, and every skincare formulator knows how to tap into these time-tested winners. Some notable examples: • Rose. Different varieties of rose hold different properties. Behmardi reports that white rose extract sup- ports natural cell regeneration and the skin barrier; damask rose extract helps tighten pores; pale rose extract works to rebuild the barrier; and rosehips brighten skin and help pre- vent transepidermal water loss. • Calendula. Although its blooms present in stimulating yellow and orange, this fl ower's extract is revered for its calming, balancing and anti- infl ammatory effects. • Lavender. We think of laven- der as the quintessential aromather- apy agent, but its oil also soothes irritated skin. • Chamomile. Consumed as a tea or used in aromatherapy, chamomile helps us tamp restlessness and insom- nia and release muscle spasms; as a skin treatment it has a similar effect, quelling redness and neutralizing al- lergic reactions. Many other favorite fl orals are cited as soothers and anti-infl ammatories. These include arnica montana, corn- fl ower, linden, melissa, mimosa, mint and white nettle. M'lisa Jack- son, president of M'lis, is a fan of pas- sion fl ower, which, she notes, "is a trustworthy skin-calming agent." Other fl oral extracts, such as cistus, garden nasturtium and milk thistle, deliver an antioxidiz- ing and oxygenating punch. Asquith favors globe daisy extract, derived from a fl owering European plant, for this purpose. "It protects skin from oxidative stress, thereby reducing the visual effects of aging, and spurs skin's production of powerful antioxi- dant enzymes," she says. "I think of it as spring cleaning for the skin." A number of fl ower-derived oils are © GETTY IMAGES Catch the Bouquet GARDEN NASTURTIUM PASSION FLOWER MIMOSA

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