SEP 2016

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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38 DAYSPA | SEPTEMBER 2016 How do you treat a client who is in the midst of a fl are-up? Babini: During a fl are-up, inappropriate skin care can cause major discomfort. Professional treatments should focus on reversing infl ammation and reactivity in the very fi rst visit; the fastest way to calm the skin is to apply soothing products without stimulating heat, friction or blood fl ow. Our go-to is the RS2 Mask Treatment from Pevonia—the ingredients focus on rehydrating the skin, relaxing the nerves and calming the infl ammatory response, and the results are immediate. Because triggers may range from diet to temperature to stress responses, I fi nd a holistic approach to be benefi cial to sensitive clients as well. Berry: When a client is experiencing a fl are-up, typically what they care about most is walking out the door with calmer skin. I perform a cooling, healing seaweed facial and avoid all heat, such as steamers or hot towels. I keep massage and exfoliation to a minimum, and I never use scrubs or gommages. Crossett: Overstimulating a rosacea client may exacerbate the fl are-up. Avoid both heat and cold during treatments, and do not perform extractions. Even water may be uncomfortable; instead, use a sensitive skin or oil-based cleanser that can be applied on its own. I recommend avoiding facial services on more moderate and severe rosacea cases, clients with large pustules, or those who are under a physician's care (unless you're collaborating with their doctor). What are the best ingredients or products for healing these clients' skin? Crossett: In general, rosacea clients should limit the amount of skin care they are using— multifunctional formulas are best. I suggest mild exfoliation with digestive enzymes rather than physical scrubs. Clients should avoid drying products, such as alcohol or witch hazel, and stay away from peppermint, eucalyptus, menthol and other ingredients that stimulate the skin. Always choose products that don't contain mineral oils, unnecessary fragrances and harsh parabens— keep it gentle and mild! With these clients I ask myself, 'Could I put this on a baby or a pregnant woman?' If not, I probably wouldn't use it on a rosacea client. Babini: Our favorite ingredients for calming infl ammation and irritation are seaweed, French rose oil, chamomile, green tea and allantoin. We offer a number of gentle homecare products, SKIN SOOTHERS Botanical Science, Inc. Keep It Calm Relief Serum 800.668.7546, Ilike Organic Skin Care Ultra Sensitive System Whipped Moisturizer 888.290.6238, G.M. Collin Vasco-Tonic Concentrate 800.341.1531, HydroPeptide Soothing Serum 800.932.9873, Apothederm Moisturizing Cleanser 877.496.0038, SPOTLIGHT ON... Jane Iredale Amazing Base Loose Mineral Powder in Light Beige 800.762.1132, SESHA Skin Therapy Oxy Revital PL Cream 888.977.3742, Dermalogica Ultracalming Serum Concentrate 800.831.5150,

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