DEC 2016

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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Page 19 of 84 • december 2016 • [ 17 ] Éminence Bright Skin Licorice Booster-Serum Pevonia RS2 Concentrate Naturopathica Vitality Tea Joanna Vargas Bright Eye Hydrating Mask Biopelle Brightening Booster HydroPeptide Firming Moisturizer LICORICE PRODUCTS Why it's a skincare all-star: Considered a natural alternative to the controversial hydroquinone, licorice extract contains glabridin, a fl avonoid that inhibits pigmentation. As such, it reduces hyperpigmentation and evens out skin tone. It also boasts soothing properties that can help calm infl ammation and tone down redness in clients with rosacea. It may even off er promise as a natural sun protector: Research published in the January 2015 issue of Experimental Dermatology suggests that the antioxidant active Licochalcone A, the main component of the root extract of the plant Glycyrrhiza infl ate (Chinese licorice), is able to protect the skin from subsequent UV irradiation damage by bolstering the skin's own defense systems. In the treatment room: Skin Deep & Beyond MedSpa in Tualatin, Oregon, off ers a Bright Skin Facial (60 min./$69) featuring Éminence's Bright Skin Masque and Bright Skin Licorice Booster-Serum. "Following the facial, clients report that their skin feels soft and hydrated, and looks bright and even-toned," shares Stefani Miller, an esthetician at the spa. For guests with rosacea or microcirculation problems, Emerald Springs Spa in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, provides an RS2 Rosacea Soothing Relief Facial (60 min./$125) using Pevonia's rosacea line. "This service is so anti-infl ammatory and calming," reports Jamie Garland, one of the spa's estheticians, adding that she likes to send clients home with the products afterwards to prolong the benefi ts. As for melasma, the jury's still out. Some studies have found that licorice may help counteract the signs of this stubborn skin condition, but facialist Joanna Vargas, with salons in New York City and West Hollywood, California, disagrees. "Licorice does make the skin appear a bit brighter and healthier, but it doesn't dramatically change something like melasma," she opines. Robin Ferro, owner of The Spa and Makeup Bar in Owings Mill, Maryland, employs HydroPeptide's Firming Moisturizer in the spa's add-on Firming Leg Treatment (30 min./$65). "I often use this lotion on the décolleté and arms as well, especially if my client has a lot of hyperpigmentation, laxity or dryness in the skin," she reports. "It goes on so lightly and absorbs well, and lends a really cool, refreshing feeling." u LEFT: © GETTY IMAGES A In tablet and capsule form, licorice extracts may lessen hair loss and improve hair health. Hair rinses containing licorice root extracts are believed to reduce dandruff . A Its culinary and medicinal uses are widespread: Licorice has been credited with addressing everything from sore throats and coughs to cankers, ulcers and even depression. A Many edible "licorice" products don't actually contain licorice but rather anise oil, which has the smell and taste of black licorice. A Licorice should be avoided by clients who have high blood pressure or kidney disease, or are pregnant. In addition, it interacts with certain prescription drugs, so a medical professional should always be consulted before use. QUICK FACTS S

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