DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.
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[ 24 ] • # dayspamagazine • january 2018 LEFT: © GETTY IMAGES; RIGHT: JASON BENNETT LIPID PRODUCTS SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 skinceuticals.com Thalgo Prodige Des Océans La Crème thalgousa.com What are the different types of topical lipids? Dr. DeHaven: The three primary classes of lipids found in the skin barrier are ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. Ceramides are categorized by their chain lengths (the number of carbon atoms composing the molecule's length). Long- chain ceramides are particularly important for skin barrier function and maintaining moisture. Synthesis of these ceramides is defi cient in skin conditions like eczema and dry skin in general. The dryness universally described by clients with aging and photodamaged skin relates in large part to lower levels of long-chain ceramides. Asquith: Cholesterol has a water-binding capacity that helps retain moisture in the skin, making it very important for repairing normal barrier function. Akers: Free fatty acids help maintain lipid balance, which contributes to the skin's natural repair process. A 3:1:1 ratio of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids is necessary for normalized skin. Although topical treatment is a powerful method for combating lipid loss, this balancing lipid ratio must be present for it to be effective. How do lipids work with other ingredients? Asquith: Product formulators often combine lipids and other actives with both oil and water bases. Because water and oil don't mix well, an emulsifi er must be added to facilitate the combining of ingredients and to ensure product effi cacy. The big risk is when consumers play mix-and-match on their own. For example, if an oil is applied to the skin, then followed by a water- based product, the oil will prohibit penetration of that water-based product. Akers: Lipids are most effective when utilized with other topical treatments, as skin health is best managed when different products are used throughout the day. In the morning, cleanse, tone, apply a topical antioxidant and follow with a lipid hydrator to counter the effects of lipid loss. In the evening, cleanse, tone, apply a retinol and fi nish with the same hydrator to help the skin repair itself overnight. u spotlight Rhonda Allison Cucumber Spritz rhondaallison.com "Lipids are critical components in aiding the skin's natural repair process." Repêchage Hydra 4 Day Protection Cream repechage.com wate r - rat i on o r Pevonia Rejuvenating Dry Skin Cream pevoniapro.com