DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.
Issue link: https://dayspamagazine.epubxp.com/i/918922
[ 30 ] • # dayspamagazine • january 2018 But are things really that black and white? Most likely not—let's just say that the FDA currently does not recognize in-between terms such as "cosmeceuticals" as a category. So, as it stands today, the very real progress that skincare formulators are making in innovative product delivery systems—particularly in the realm of antiaging—is muted by these legal defi nitions, prompting many skincare manufacturers to consult regulatory experts who help them stay within their legal parameters in terms of marketing claims and product descriptions. "We have three regulators in our R&D;," reports Lydia Sarfati, founder and CEO of Repêchage. "They scrutinize everything we say, write and talk about because it's necessary when you want to be working within the law." She notes that Canada has created separate categories for "cosmetics" and "functional cosmetics," designations that Sarfati and many others in the industry feel are long overdue in the U.S. Clearly, any responsible discussion of product delivery systems in U.S.-marketed skin care should operate within the parameters of current FDA guidelines. That said, science is science and progress is progress. Working on the same level playing fi eld, cosmetics formulators share the many ways in which they're able to deliver key ingredients to the skin and yield visible improvements in tone, texture and overall condition. Ways to Deliver Here's a brief rundown of current product delivery technologies, from the tried-and-true to the cutting-edge: Emulsions Emulsions are formed when droplets of one liquid are combined with another liquid that isn't soluble (think: oil and vinegar). Skincare chemists use a basic emulsion to serve as a carrier to enable stability of the formula, setting the scene for the addition of active ingredients. "The base of the product, or type of emulsion, is a very important player that can infl uence how delivery systems work and whether or not they're capable of producing benefi ts," says Christian Jurist, MD, medical director of global education for Pevonia International. Emulsions come in many forms. Eric Chillseyzn, senior VP of research and development/CTO for Glycelene and Borio Beauty, is partial to the liquid crystal emulsion, which has a layered structure that he says provides "excellent active stability and delivery with minimal disruption of the dermal barrier." There are also microemulsion formulas in which the drops are so small the product often appears transparent. Dr. Jurist points to the ability of a time-release or triphase (also called multiple) microemulsion to enhance results. safe passage © GETTY IMAGES "The goal for drone technology is to precisely deliver actives into cells where specifi c molecules 'signal' the active, telling it where to reach and interact."