Dayspa

JAN 2018

DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.

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[ 32 ] • # dayspamagazine • january 2018 safe passage Serums Serums are specifi cally formulated to be lightweight and quickly absorbed, enabling key ingredients to easily penetrate outer layers of the skin. Serums are usually water-based because the presence of oil is likely to slow absorption and even occlude the skin's surface, and they are highly concentrated to deliver brighteners, antioxidants, peptides, etc., as eff ectively as possible. Alcohol systems As an ingredient in skin care, alcohol has an understandably negative reputation for drying and irritating the skin. However, not all alcohols are created equal; so-called fatty alcohols (cetyl, stearyl, behenyl and cetearyl) are derived from vegetables and actually have an emollient eff ect—but, thanks to their molecular structure, they can still penetrate the barrier layer and act as eff ective carriers. Microencapsulation True to its name, microencapsulation calls for the key ingredient to be encased in the formulation and then released into the skin when applied. This delivery method, explains G.M. Collin's director of education Karen Asquith, "prohibits the breakdown of the active and also provides a slower release into the skin, thus reducing sensitivity and irritation." This technology has been around for years, notes Chillseyzn. "One example of an eff ective microencapsulation is the liposome , which can be very eff ective," he says. The lipid layer in liposomes enables the natural formation of a sphere shape that can hold key ingredients. Spherulites , a trademarked term, also fall into this category. They are stable encapsulations with a layered, onion-like structure that enable rinse-off products to eff ectively deposit key ingredients onto the skin. Molecular patches The transdermal delivery of key ingredients is usually associated with prescription and over the counter (OTC) medications, but it has been marketed in skin care since the 1990s. Its goal is to "push" ingredients deeply into the skin in a controlled fashion. Lately, the technology is gaining popularity in the use of facial masks. "Many mask patches contain the active ingredients on one side with an occlusive material on the external side, thus increasing the penetration into the skin," explains Asquith. A key challenge with molecular patches is regulating the depth of penetration. "Skincare actives generally need to be delivered to specifi c layers of the skin to be eff ective, which means limited migration," says Chillseyzn. "You don't want these ingredients to reach the blood stream where they quickly get dispersed through the body and are rendered useless." Nanotechnology When applied to skin care, the term "nanotechnology" is often misunderstood. "Truthfully, 'nano' describes anything smaller than a micron, and most active materials are already 'nano,'" explains Chillseyzn. "The term actually refers to bringing the whole delivery vehicle down to nanoparticle size." For example, a nanoemulsion is an emulsion whose droplets are smaller than those of a microemulsion. Nanotechnology is considered controversial, particularly when used red , t o e n . a inin g c ial e s contain © GETTY IMAGES Another proven method of product delivery generally takes place in the spa treatment room, and that's skincare devices. "Estheticians can use machines to help drive ingredients into the skin," says Lydia Sarfati, founder and CEO of Repêchage. "Galvanic current and iontophoresis are proven microcurrent technologies that can be administered via equipment approved by the FDA for aesthetic use in most states." At a time when topical skincare formulators pursue product delivery system breakthroughs, galvanic and iontophoresis are established go-tos for in-spa use. Galvanic technology is commonly used to prepare skin to optimally receive the key ingredients to come. "It facilitates disencrustation and deep cleansing, and the loosening of sebum for easy extraction," explains Sarfati. Iontophoresis, often used by physical therapists to introduce anti-infl ammatories to their clients' ailing muscles and joints, facilitates the transdermal delivery of skincare ingredients. "You just need to make sure the substance going into the skin is pure," stresses Sarfati. "There shouldn't be any possible allergens or triggers than can cause irritation or edema." Devices That Drive

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