DAYSPA is the business resource for spa & wellness professionals! Each issue covers the latest in skin care, spa treatments, wellness services and management strategies.
Issue link: https://dayspamagazine.epubxp.com/i/927093
D r y S k i n O i l y / A c n e i c S k i n [ 48 ] • # dayspamagazine • february 2018 All our sources agreed that a series of four to six treatments is always optimal. "Although one chemical treatment will lead to visible rejuvenation, it's best when estheticians can 'capture' the skin as it's turning over, which generally occurs in two- to three-week intervals," explains Khalil-Otto. "This encourages the skin cells to regenerate more rapidly, and breaks up melanin before it rises to the surface." Zone notes that serial treatment minimizes infl ammatory responses. "You're also able to vary the strength and type of acid used, based on previous responses," she says. "Plus, the client has to commit to taking care of their skin over time." But even when executing the gentlest of chemical peels, it's crucial to take a client's skin type into account. This will determine which ingredients to reach for and which ones to avoid, as well as any accompanying skin issues that need addressing before the treatment can take place. Read on for key pointers from leading industry experts. Dry Skin If dry skin is due to age, over-exfoliation or simply lack of hydration, it's important to bring the client's skin back to optimal health before proceeding with chemical exfoliation, says Khalil-Otto. She recommends restoring barrier function with a blend of humectants and anti-infl ammatory ingredients. "Afterward, gentle exfoliation will be key to removing damaged cells and revealing new healthy ones." Elizabeth Jones Roth, an advanced instructor at Dermalogica, explains that the cells of dry skin have a harder time with desquamation, leading to hydration loss and roughness. "These clients need gentle exfoliants that reinforce internal hydration," she says. Zone, who echoes that sentiment, recommends vitamin B and peptide blends. PCA Skin's vice president of business development, Danae Markland, looks to lactic acid to treat dry skin because "it purges dead skin cells while stimulating healthy new ones, which contain more moisture," she says. Oily/Acneic Skin Ensure the client's skin barrier is healthy and intact before using any exfoliant, says Roth, who also reminds estheticians to consider any acne medications the client could be taking (such as Accutane). "Oily skin often produces four to fi ve times more skin cells than average, resulting in a buildup of dead cells," she says. © GETTY IMAGES mass a-peel KNOW BEFORE YOU PEEL Chemical exfoliation contraindications include pregnancy, breastfeeding, ingredient allergies, infl amed skin with open wounds, psoriasis, sunburn, recent wax or laser treatments, immune disorders and chemotherapy/ radiation. And make sure guests haven't taken aspirin that day. "As a derivative of salicylic acid, it can lead to serious complications," says Elizabeth Jones Roth, an advanced instructor at Dermalogica, adding that clients on Accutane or Retin-A should not receive peels, as these ingredients affect the skin's ability to heal. Patch tests are crucial. Review client allergies and sensitivities prior to performing any chemical service—especially a series. "Health status, medication and lifestyle can change in a matter of weeks," notes Marya Khalil- Otto, CEO of VI Aesthetics, "so perform a thorough client intake during each visit to check for contraindications that may arise between treatments." And if you're unsure whether a new development could be a potential contraindication? "My motto is 'When in doubt, refer out,'" says Khalil-Otto. "The best course of action is always to send the client back to their doctor for a fi nal sign-off."