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H y p e r p i g m e n t e d S k i n M a t u r e S k i n dayspamagazine.com/freeinfo dayspamagazine.com • february 2018 • [ 51 ] © GETTY IMAGES "Enzymes digest and break down dead keratin proteins, which sloughs off gently, bringing healthy new cells to the surface and neutralizing the enzymes," she explains. "This reduces the risk of over-exfoliation." Hyperpigmented Skin Stubborn pigmentation often requires a few treatments to lift and reveal even skin tones. "To reach the basal layer where melanocyte cells are produced, I recommend TCA, one of the strongest acids," shares Roth. "Used in layers, it can penetrate to achieve various depths of peeling." To complement the TCA and boost results, the pro reaches for an alpha hydroxy acid, which brightens, hydrates and exfoliates. In addition to chemical peels every four to six weeks, Khalil-Otto recommends that hyperpigmented clients cycle on and off a homecare hydroquinone product every two months. "Resorcinol is also an eff ective fl aking agent that encourages a little more peeling and accelerates results," says Markland. For clients seeking gentler, more natural lightening agents, suggest products containing kojic acid and vitamin C. For anyone expecting a quick fi x, education and expectation management are key. "Success depends on determining the cause of the hyperpigmentation and how long it's been an issue," explains Khalil-Otto. "Once a stasis or leveling-off is achieved, it's imperative to use topical lighteners to slow down, maintain and prevent further pigmentation." Mature Skin The aging process slows cellular turnover and depletes collagen, but chemical peels can help hasten cell regeneration, improve texture and tone, build collagen and otherwise combat Father Time. "As long as skin is healthy and not too thin, I like to use glycolic peels," says Zone. Markland recommends TCA for its ability to mitigate the appearance of fi ne lines and wrinkles. If an older client's skin is looking particularly dull, she turns to brightening agents and antioxidants. To this end, Roth recommends vitamin A. "This speeds cell renewal and smooths out rough texture, and inhibits collagen- degrading enzymes," she explains. Retinoic acid receptors naturally occur in our skin, but they decrease as we age, making our skin more sensitive to retinol.