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The War At Home WINTER'S WRATH Twice daily application for 56 days* Visible, Age-Defying Results ~ Innovative multi-active peptide formulations ~ Benefit optimizing concentrations ~ Performance enhancing synergy ~ Free of all suspect ingredients ~ American made, Cruelty free, Recyclable! scan code/visit web/or call... www.DermaEarth.com Use FreeInfo #36 78 DAYSPA | JANUARY 2014 Once internal moisture is compromised, clients usually see a domino effect in their skin; they can no longer store the water that is essential for proper function, proliferation and tissue repair. "That's when the integrity of skin begins to degrade," says Lisa Crary, CEO of Sanítas Skincare (sanitasskincare.com). "Its intercellular cement breaks down, leaving skin more susceptible to free radical and UV damage, as well as fine lines and wrinkles." And what typically happens once clients notice the hallmarks of dehydrated skin, such as rough patches, flakiness, chapping, fine lines, dullness, and crepelike skin in the delicate eye and lip regions? "They go for heavier moisturizers, which tend to be more oily and often aren't what their skin really needs," "The public often doesn't understand that 'dry' is a skin type, while dehydration is a skin condition." that evaporate water in the air, leading to dehydrated skin," says Nicholls. "And the epidermis manifests dehydration much like blotting paper would: first the dampest area, or dermis, is affected; eventually the condition reaches the stratum corneum, the skin's outer layers. So, the skin is often parched long before clients notice any changes on the surface." Cells within the skin's barrier are charged with protecting the skin and maintaining optimal hydration levels. Gül Zone, founder of DermAware (derma ware.com), explains that as we age, this crucial infrastructure produces fewer naturally occurring moisture molecules. "The cells become disorganized and inefficient, leading to even greater moisture loss," she says. "This is exacerbated with the temperature and altitude changes we experience during the winter, and typically calls for different types of hydrators." replies Keith West-Harrison, co-owner of Albuquerque's Great Face & Body Spa. "It's all about balancing water moisture and oil moisture." Assessing the needs of each individual's dehydrated skin requires the trained eye and prescriptive prowess of a professional. "On close inspection, dehydrated skin will appear crepe-y, like onion skin," explains Dermalogica's King. "Under a black light, it may look purple and may carry a sheen-like, reflective coating over the forehead, temple and cheekbones. It may appear to 'drink up' the spritzers, toners, serums and moisturizers employed during the facial." Dehydrated skin also tends to form lines easily. "Viewed closely through a magnifying glass, it will show tiny, fine triangular marks," says Naturopathica's Close. Remarks Stacy Cox, esthetician and owner of Los Angeles' Pampered People, © ALEXANDR SMUSHKO/GETTY Results Focused, Naturally Inspired Smart Skin System When discussing home care with clients, it's crucial to make the distinction between dryness and dehydration. "The public often doesn't understand that 'dry' is a skin type, just like 'oily' or 'combination', while dehydration is a skin condition," points out Barbara Close, CEO of Naturopathica (naturopathica.com). "Dehydration can be genetic, but it's most often environmental." "Dehydrated skin results from lack of internal moisture, whereas dry skin is from insufficient or reduced sebum production, from natural aging or health issues," explains Anna Sforza, director of education for Somme Institute (somme institute.com). And much like physical thirst, dehydration isn't perceptible until after it has become an issue. "Fluctuating temperatures and humidity, wind, UV rays, heating and air conditioning are all factors MOIST SKIN IS HEALTHY SKIN