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The War At Home "The first way to increase the stratum corneum's water-holding capacity is via humectants, which replace natural moisture factors." and smooth the skin; humectants, which attract water to barrier skin cells; ceramides, which act as the glue holding skin together; and occlusives, which lock in hydration and prevent moisture from escaping." Heathman elaborates. "The first way to increase the stratum corneum's water-holding capacity is via humectants, which replace natural moisture factors," she says. "To seal in these humectants and prevent their evaporation, you'll need an occlusive or semiocclusive cream." "Serums will penetrate the deeper layers of skin to attract and bind moisture," explains King, "but they should be capped with a slightly heavier-weight moisturizer to replenish lipids and repair the barrier. These shouldn't feel sticky, heavy or greasy—such markers typically indicate cheaper, petroleum-derived filler ingredients." Severe dehydration especially calls for serum/ cream combos. "Look for serums containing CoQ10 and sodium hyaluronate, and sealing creams that prevent transepidermal water loss," advises Boghosian. Sometimes finding the perfect hydrating cocktail takes trial and error. Says Cox, "It boils down to your willingness to experiment and implement a plan that works for each client." Daily care can be augmented with intensive athome regimens. Sothys' Pichery says all skin types benefit from a twice-monthly hydrating home mask during winter. Fitzpatrick turns to hyaluronic filling spheres to volumize and hydrate large-pored skin. Crary cautions against neglecting exfoliation: "A good glycolic product used a few times a week stimulates cell renewal and skin's natural moisture production," she explains. DermAware's Zone points out that peptides, peels and fat-soluble vitamins— Readers' Choi e c Aw ard dayspamagazine.com/freeinfo • Use FreeInfo #52 82 DAYSPA | JANUARY 2014