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Issue link: https://dayspamagazine.epubxp.com/i/115935
GREEN SCENE The "ingredient vs. whole product" variable has sparked some debate. "In my opinion, 'cruelty-free,' as used and defined in the cosmetic and skincare product business, is a label designation that pertains to the finished good, and not each individual ingredient," says Kirsten Corcoran, owner of Larénim Mineral, a cosmetics manufacturer in Columbus, Ohio. "Due to the complexity and history behind the development of many raw cosmetics, to say anything else might be misleading, inaccurate or untruthful." Indeed, regardless of how airtight a manufacturing company's reputation may seem, in-depth research may be necessary. Brad Drummer, managing owner of Nusta Spa in Washington, D.C., had committed to an eco-friendly, certified-organic line, but one day, a client pointed out that the collagen used in one of the spa's eye treatments was harvested from an endangered fish. After contacting the manufacturer (whose U.S. division was itself perplexed, and transferred Drummer to its overseas headquarters), the company was—after a week of research—able to produce verification that the collagen in question was derived from a non-endangered species, and sourced only after the fish had been harvested for food. "It was an enlightening experience," says Drummer. "I've researched products more carefully since that happened, but it can be difficult to get the right answers. And, ultimately, unless you physically investigate the company's manufacturing plant, you have to take its word for it." ANIMAL-FRIENDLY ADVICE Running a credible cruelty-free spa is well within reach, if you do your due diligence in researching brands and products. Here are some steps to take: • Refer to a reputable third-party regulator. Third-party certifications are designed to help skeptical spa owners and consumers feel more secure about the ethics behind their products. The aforementioned 2011 CCIC poll found that consumers are more than three times more likely to trust an independent third party (67%) than a company's own claims (21%) about its animal testing policy. Look for PETA's (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) crueltyfree bunny logo, or the Leaping Bunny symbol, on products you're considering carrying in your spa. Katherine Goldman, esthetician and founder of the 84 DAYSPA | APRIL 2013 San Francisco-based Stript Wax Bar, also suggests seeking the words, "Not Tested On Animals" or "Against Animal Testing," on all packaging. • Test your manufacturer's commitment to "cruelty-free." According to Katrinak, CCIC's Leaping Bunny program ensures that a company doesn't engage in any new animal testing for products, formulations or ingredients, by requiring companies to obtain declarations from their manufacturers and ingredient suppliers attesting to this fact. Participating companies must recommit to the program annually, and be open to independent audits, too. All certified companies are listed on leapingbunny.org, and the organization has an app for Androids and iPhones that allows for quick brand searches. Regularly checking in with manufacturers can also help concerned spa owners determine the SPA OWNERS SPEAK Here's how some pros ensure that the products they use are safe. " I look for key symbols and phrases on packaging, and I verify any cruelty-free status with press releases, brand websites, store staff and unbiased, third-party, watchdog-type sites. My favorite resource is via Twitter: @MyBeautyBunny, operated by Jen Mathews, who also has a blog that's regularly updated. She does an incredible job of checking brands and their products." —Liliana Aranda, clinical oncology esthetician/owner of FACES by Liliana Mobile Beauty, San Francisco and Phoenix areas " " We use only botanical ingredients certified by at least one cruelty-free organization. We also visit most of our suppliers to personally oversee the process. We drop by once a year—often unannounced—to verify their claims." —Keith West-Harrison, esthetician/co-owner of Great Face & Body in Albuquerque, New Mexico Being an animal activist and lifelong animal lover (we even feature pictures of our clients' pets in our spa), I have always felt beauty shouldn't have to hurt others, and over the years, I keep getting more requests for all-natural and/or cruelty-free products. In researching products, I first call the company to ascertain its stance on animal testing, and then check with several websites to verify they're cruelty-free; if there's a parent company, we work to ensure that they, too, are cruelty-free."—Susan Vanyo, CEO/founder, Rejuvenate Spas, Atlanta