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Issue link: https://dayspamagazine.epubxp.com/i/104329
SPOTLIGHT ON... them how to properly cleanse and exfoliate. Then we introduce products like sheer tinted moisturizers that can substitute for clogging makeup. Mandy Epley, master esthetician at Jillian Wright Clinical Skin Spa in New York City: I've treated acne clients for years, but I'd often find they weren't adequately following my homecare recommendations. So, last summer, I came up with the 90-Day Acne Challenge ($1,495), an intensive boot camp for the skin. Clients receive nine customized treatments within three months—no two clients have the same regimen. We start with a deep-cleansing facial, then there's a peel with some LED therapy, and some soothing treatments, too. They have to really commit to it; it's like working with a personal trainer. I have strict rules: no prescription medication, and you have to wear sunscreen every day and follow dietary guidelines. What do you tell your acne clients about home care? Edward: I make sure clients understand that 50% of their results stem from their own efforts. I then advise them to avoid mechanical facial scrubs and non-mineral makeup. They should start cleansing with a Clarisonic brush once a week, using an acid exfoliant—glycolic, salicylic or retinoic—and applying a hydrating serum and cream. People with acne often don't want to moisturize, even though they have dried out their skin with harsh products, so I point these clients toward oil-free, emollient moisturizers and explain to them why they must keep the skin barrier hydrated. I also explain how picking, stress and lack of sleep will only make the problem worse. Finally, to help clients stay on track, I refer them to freeacnebook.com for free online professional advice. Epley: I match my clients to the right sunscreen and cleanser; sometimes a combination of cleansers is needed to dry out the acne but spare the rest of the skin! Customized regimens usually also include vitamin A toner or a light retinol cream. Clients must totally change their diets for the duration of the program—I have them add turmeric spice and fennel to food, eat a lot of raw carrots and eliminate all dairy. Dahlgren: We point teens toward a user-friendly, starter skincare product line. I'll tell them that dairy Acne Antidotes (continued) Abbe Laboratories End-Zit Acne Control Drying Lotion This creamy solution conceals while it heals and can be applied under makeup. 800.457.0990, abbelabs.com 32 DAYSPA | FEBRUARY 2013 Epicuren Blemish Eraser A combination of salicylic acid, cinnamon bark oil, tea tree oil and aloe vera help clear away blemishes, dissolve oil and smooth skin congestion. 800.235.1217, epicuren.com Éminence Clear Skin Vitamins This multi-phase vegan supplement is designed to regulate and calm the skin. 888.747.6342, eminenceorganics.com Glo-Therapeutics Clear Anti-Blemish Cleanser Benzoyl peroxide, cucumber and chamomile detoxify the skin, removing impurities and excess oil. 800.232.0398, gloprofessional.com Environ B-Active Sebuspot Suitable for all skin types, this gel is specially formulated to assist in soothing spots. 877.DERMACARE, dermaconcepts.com