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treated with sunscreen using confocal microscopy (an advanced optical imaging technique) and found that these nanoparticles do not penetrate the stratum corneum even in small amounts, as some earlier studies had suggested. This is new technology and there is still much to learn. Many safety issues associated with nanotechnology remain unresolved and, therefore, it's important that skincare professionals keep up to date and remain aware of nanoscale ingredients in products they use. of chemical peels," adds Kulesza. "An Italian manufacturer uses nanoscale silica gels that basically make the peels much stronger, or at least allow for use of lower levels of acids to accomplish the same effect." Nanoscale, highly transparent powders can be used in makeup foundations, eye shadows and lipsticks. They do not visibly coat the skin or change its color; rather, they diffuse light, making wrinkles and fine lines virtually disappear. For a list of U.S. products using nanotechnology (compiled by the Project on Emerging Technologies), visit nanotechproject.org. Linda W. Lewis is an editorial consultant and a regular contributor to DAYSPA. IN THE MARKETPLACE If there's a question of safety, why use nanoscale ingredients? We don't yet know all the answers, but major cosmetic manufacturers are working with nanoscale ingredients and finding some intriguing benefits. Reportlinker.com, a search engine that offers access to industry, company and country reports, says cosmetics using nanoscale particles surpassed $155.8 million in 2012, with sunscreens accounting for 95% of the market. "People have to want to use cosmetics, so the look and feel of a product can be just as important as its effects," says Friedman. "Nanoparticles can play a major role in creating more attractive formulations. Zinc oxide, for example, blocks full-spectrum UV radiation, but at visible particle sizes it leaves an unattractive white film on the skin. Sunscreens with nanoparticles of zinc oxide provide similar UV protection without discoloring the skin. "Fat-soluble ingredients offer another example," Friedman continues. "Delivering them to the skin at standard particle sizes means putting them in a heavy, oily cream. Nanoparticles of the same ingredient can be encapsulated and used in lighter, water-based formulations." "Nanoparticles have also shown potential in enhancing the efficacy dayspamagazine.com/freeinfo • Use FreeInfo #39 dayspamagazine.com | FEBRUARY 2013 87