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MODES OF MOISTURIZING cells, sebum and other impurities. Allison: Wild yam extract provides natural hormonal breakout support. This antioxidant phyto-hormone soothes inflammation, and would hydrate without causing breakouts. Fitzpatrick: Salicylic and camphor are also great substitutes for more extreme topical acne treatments—camphor will sedate the skin and soothe redness. And encourage spot treatments whenever possible. Morris: Horse chestnut will soothe Sally's redness and inflammation. And lactic acid-rich products will gently smooth and hydrate her skin. CLIENT PROFILE: Sally, a 16-year-old high school student in Vermont, successfully treats her acne with overthe-counter benzoyl peroxide products. How can she address the resulting dehydration without incurring more breakouts? Heathman: Benzoyl peroxide [BP] is a drying, peeling agent that manages acne by releasing a reactive form of oxygen to kill bacteria and control oil in the sebaceous follicle. This ingredient is only doing its job; however, dryness and irritation are very common side effects. Implementing more hydration will help combat the overstimulation of oil that's being triggered by Sally's skin's dry state. I would recommend ceramides, hyaluronic acid and botanical ingredients to help build up her stratum corneum barrier, and non-oily moisturizers. Linker: She should seek a slightly less drying, professional acne treatment protocol. I would recommend 2.5% BP instead of the 5% she is most likely using. She should also apply a serum for added moisture. Campbell: I'd recommend switching 70 DAYSPA | FEBRUARY 2013 to benzoyl-free home care containing Glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, a form of licorice. This ingredient reduces sebum and has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Sally should also keep her skin clear and hydrated via regular deep-cleansing facials. Asquith: I would eliminate the BP because there are many ingredients that treat acne without dehydrating the skin. Hexamidine disethionate is a non-drying asepticizer that inhibits the propionic bacterium—the principal bacteria responsible for causing acne—and it also has an anti-irritant effect. Other exceptional acne reducers include antimicrobial peptides, which eradicate sebum and destroy acne-causing bacteria; probiotics, which prevent the accumulation of this bacteria; and salicylic acid, which acts as an antiseptic, cleanses pores, and loosens and removes dead Allison: Using epidermal growth factor at night supports healing of any lesions and will continue to balance Sally's hydration; research shows that it accelerates the growth of epidermal cells and assists in wound healing. Matsunaga: The root of Sally's problem is internal; acne develops as a result of toxins creating fertile conditions in which bacteria can thrive and multiply. An internal detoxification program will help eliminate accumulated toxins and support the growth of friendly bacteria to combat her breakouts. Probiotics and omega-3 oils will help support this process. In the meantime, Sally should use an antifungal/ antibacterial cleanser morning and night, followed by C serum, and a twiceweekly clay mask to draw out embedded impurities. Omega-3-rich foods help reduce accumulation of toxins. ©ISTOCKPHOTO.COM